For some reason I never saw your email offering to scope my distributor.  I am very interested in you doing that.  If you are still willing to scope the distributor please send me your name, direct email address, and street address.

Also, I'm interested in purchasiing that old (57) rebuilt distributor you mentioned.  Thanks, Gary Adams gadams2@bellsouth.net 

Gary

You are not trying to apply 14 inches of vacuum.All you are doing is sucking enough to verify there is no hole in the diaphragm.If you want to check HOW much vacuum advance you have available apply a direct vacuum source like from the motor and see HOW much the timing advances when direct vacuum is applied.

  

OK, I sucked on the distributor vaccum line and got firm resistance (no hole, rips, etc.).  I did have the vaccum line connected to the top vacuum connection on the carburetor which was wrong!  So, I moved the vaccum connection to the one on bottom of the carburetor and I'll test it tomorrow.  That was probably my problem.  Thanks to all of you for your answers and help ... very much appreciated 

Gary

The one from the metering block is the "ported" or timed  vacuum sorce above the throttle plate.Only becomes active off idle when the throttle plate opens.The one below the throttle plate which is where he has plugged his line onto now is the active,non ported,fulltime vacuum source.If you do a search for this topic in previous posts you will see there are lots of opposite opinions about which source is the one to use.

  

Gary,

I think you still have the incorrect vacuum source. I think your carb is a 600 holley the timed vacuum source is a small tube on the right side of the carb coming out of the fuel metering block.

Cheers

Warren Adams

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

I had the distributor connected to "ported vaccum." Also, as suggested herein, I sucked on the distributor vaccum line and got great resistance. Did not remove dist cap to see if anything was moving. Moved vaccum connection to bottom of carburetor, this will probably solve my problem! On vacation now and unable to test drive. In case my trouble ends up being the distributor, please recommend someone that I can ship this thing to for adjustment. Thanks to all so much .... you have been a great help to me.

Gary

On my first post I did mention applying (direct)vacuum at idle and see if timing changes.If you simply get a piece of hose and hook it onto the vacuum outlet on dist  and suck on it you will know very quickly if the advance pot has a hole in it.If you get resistance when applying vacuum  the pot is likely OK.There is a  diaphragm inside the pot which sometimes gets a hole in it.At what speed are you getting the hesitation-as you initially start to move from dead stop or at a higher mph?

  

Gary,

       If the distributor is connected to  a PORTED vacuum connection (on the carb) it will not advance at idle. A ported vacuum connection has the origin ABOVE the throttle blades. This type will only add advance during cruise conditions when the throttle blades are open.

     To test this, disconnect the vaccum hose to the carb, bring the engine revs up to about 2000 or so then connect it and watch your timing light or listen for the RPM to increase as you connect it.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

The carburetor is on a 57 Ford 4 bbl intake.  The carburetor is a Holly with 80457-3, 0974, stamped on the choke horn.  The carb was used but like new when I purchased it.  I did have the same problem before the carburetor was rebuilt.  The damper/timing marks are correct.

While checking the timing and reving the engine with vacuum line attachhed the timing did advance and looked normal to me.  However, at idle, when reconnecting the vacuum line the rpms did not increase leading me to think the vacuum advance on disrtribuitor is defective ... thus I would like to send the thing to an expert.

Thanks everyone ... very helpful and much appreciated.

Note: for those of you helping me with high oil pressure on rebuilt 292 (80pounds at operating temp, 60 MPH), the new oil pump was ok with overflow spring and everything looking good.  Put the old, very used, oil pump back on and now have oil pressure of 58 at highway speed and 15 to 20 at idle.  Engine has 500 miles since rebuild.  Am I OK? 

Gary

Check your float level again !!!



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