Now what should I do???

Author	Message
314	Posted 14 Years Ago
Supercharged Group: Forum Members Last Active: 7 Years Ago Posts: 287, Visits: 1.7K	ive used a piece of 4x4 hardwood and a maul swinging as hard as i could and some will hardly move.theres stuck pistons and theres stuck pistons.i had a 312 that i couldnt even get the cam out the lifters were rusted in the bores.
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Daniel Jessup	Posted 14 Years Ago
Supercharged Group: Forum Members Last Active: 2 hours ago Posts: 2.0K, Visits: 129.3K	Got home from work an hour ago, and commenced on getting all of the pistons out. #4 and #6 were especially difficult. I had to break number 6 pretty good (knocked a hole through it) but it came out. The bores don't look as bad as I originally thought. With all of the pistons being a STD size, and pretty tight in the bores, I should be ok. The camshaft was a crossdrilled cam! And it had the correct cam bearings...C2AE block,,,, go figure. Probably one of those "late" changes right? Number 4 Number 6 (worst one) Daniel Jessup Lancaster, California aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com
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Daniel Jessup	Posted 14 Years Ago
Supercharged Group: Forum Members Last Active: 2 hours ago Posts: 2.0K, Visits: 129.3K	Getting ready to pull the trigger on block work, but have not delivered it to the machine shop yet. Called ahead and got some general pricing on what it should take... Deck the block - $120 Align bore the mains - $150 Bore and Hone 8 cylinders - $160 ( up to a .040 overbore, but I want more than that to give me standard 312 bore) Install cam bearings - $40 Clean and magnaflux the block - $65 located in the western part of northern Virginia, and this is really the only machine shop I know anything about...(Carquest Machine Shop, Winchester, VA)...any takers for advice here??? Daniel Jessup Lancaster, California aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com
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bird55	Posted 14 Years Ago
Supercharged Group: Forum Members Last Active: 2 Years Ago Posts: 1.1K, Visits: 58.8K	Good Idea to have them or someone qualified to do a SONIC check on all the cylinders A L A N F R A K E S ~ Tulsa, OK
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Daniel Jessup	Posted 14 Years Ago
Supercharged Group: Forum Members Last Active: 2 hours ago Posts: 2.0K, Visits: 129.3K	Alan, good point. Didn't think about that...there's goes some more cash! Daniel Jessup Lancaster, California aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com
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MoonShadow	Posted 14 Years Ago
Supercharged Group: Forum Members Last Active: 7 hours ago Posts: 4.6K, Visits: 38.1K	Up here in New Priceland it cost me $100 for a sonic test. Good information to have. I had several 272 blocks that would not bore safely to 292. That is with a blower, in a naturaly aspirated engine the walls can be a bit thinner without problems. I had one "good" 292 block that I wanted to go big on. Turned out it had too much core shift to do anything with it. So, if you plan on overboring beyond normal service (+10 to +40) I would definately do a sonic check. Chuck Y's guys rule! Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts. MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi) Manchester, New Hampshire
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Rono	Posted 14 Years Ago
Supercharged Group: Forum Members Last Active: Last Year Posts: 1.3K, Visits: 80.0K	Daniel; Is this block for your blower motor or another build? Anyway, Gord McMillen convinced me that relieving the block would be a good plan for my blower motor project. This is something you could do with a right angle, front exhaust die grinder and good carbide burr. Rono Ron Lane, Meridian, ID
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Daniel Jessup	Posted 14 Years Ago
Supercharged Group: Forum Members Last Active: 2 hours ago Posts: 2.0K, Visits: 129.3K	Yes Rono, it is going to go in my Sunliner one of these days... C2AE block 312 crankshaft 312 standard bore cylinders C1TE rods isky camshaft (per oldmics and what is believed to be the blower camshaft specs - I know it's a can of worms, but I like the specs on this cam) 471 Heads - no mods as of yet hi ratio ford rocker arm assemblies per McMaster Rollmaster Timing gears and chain 4 barrel teapot (modified for blower use) 56 4 barrel "A" Intake manifold VS57C supercharger and passenger car bracketry/setup fenderwell exit headers (yep, I can hear the "all original" people griping now!) early 60's distributor modified for blower, with ACCEL pointless ignition I am planning to run a T85 with R11 overdrive transmission...lots of plans...too much in the way right now. My son and I are putting new tires on the rear of his go kart, and we decided to blast the rims and paint them with a chrome metallic paint...fun stuff. Daniel Jessup Lancaster, California aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com
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Daniel Jessup	Posted 14 Years Ago
Supercharged Group: Forum Members Last Active: 2 hours ago Posts: 2.0K, Visits: 129.3K	Not to belabor the issue of machine shops and my dilemma, but two more shops closer to my residence closed down. One closed down about 1 week ago, literally...I have to keep going further east of where I live...nothing but West Virginia woods and mountain sides west of where I live. here is an e-mail from another shop located about 30 minutes away from me... Daniel, Thanks for your inquiry as to our services!. Sorry I took so long to get back to you, we have been very busy for over a year now. I am going to give the prices you requested and some others I thought you may need as well. Clean block only [wash] 80.00 clean complete engine 150.00 mag. block 30.00 mag heads 20.00 bore & hone block 250.00 align bore mains 300.00 R & R cam brgs 40.00 R & R exp. plugs 25.00 [ includes oil gallery plugs] deck the block 150.00 reface lifters - I can get it done OR get you new ones Valve job 3 angle 250.00 both heads surface both heads 100.00 You will need hard seats in the exh. valves [ unleaded gas] approx. 125.00 polish crankshaft 40.00 balance rot. assm. 200.00 We can get parts for pretty much anything [ we do a lot of resto. work ] . We would be happy to help you with your project. We don't cut corners or get no-name parts from who-knows where. We specialize in doing it right!!!. I also understand many people are on a budget so we try to advise you how best to spend your money to get the results you want. We have many satisfied customers [ stock & racing ] and would be glad to add you to the list. You can call or come by M - F 7:30 - 5:00 or Sat. 8:00-12:00. We look forward to serving you soon!!. Thanks again, XXXXXXXXXXXXXX This is more of a race shop, from what I understand. I do plan to visit their shop on Friday. Can't get over the price differences though. The Carquest shop I have been to before, and had a 312 crank ground their once, plus some light head work on another engine, etc. However, the shop has changed management again, and I have had issues with "staying on top" of things when it comes to Y block relevancy...guess everyone owns chebbies around here. Maybe staying on top of things is to be expected in the modern era. A question about align boring the mains - anyone know why there might be such a large difference in pricing between the two shops? Daniel Jessup Lancaster, California aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com
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mctim64	Posted 14 Years Ago
Supercharged Group: Forum Members Last Active: 6 Years Ago Posts: 2.4K, Visits: 5.0K	Daniel Jessup (3/15/2011) A question about align boring the mains - anyone know why there might be such a large difference in pricing between the two shops? My guess is one shop is talking about align honing ($150) and the other is talking about align boring ($300). If your crank is in good condition and the caps are tight (you should have to tap them into place with a hammer) check the clearance and see how well the crank turns with new bearings, you may not need to do anything. If the caps look like they have been moving but no spun bearings honing is more than enough. I like to align hone the blocks I do just to be sure the mains are good and strait, the trick is not to take too much out with a hone as it raises your center line. If a bearing has "spun" in the block or the crank was burnt that is when boring may be needed. See if you can have a tour of the shop doing the work, see what engines they are working on and see how nice the equipment looks. Do they use a stationary boring bar or a portable? (one that just bolts to the top of the block) Do they "square" the block when they deck it or just copy the old surface? Get a feel for the guys you are working with, you can usually tell if they know what they are doing. Watch out for the ones that sound like a used car salesman. *God Bless.* Tim http://yblockguy.com/ 350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor tim@yblockguy.com *Visalia, California* Just west of the Sequoias
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Now what should I do???

Now what should I do???

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