Ted    Finally getting my adaptor figured out...SFI  Fe style bellhousing to Y-block and came across this problem....overlapping holes. This is the bolt hole just below the starter.  Do you recall how you handled this?  Offset the hole in the block to match the Fe pattern (ok, slot the hole), then use a through bolt and nut???? Anyone with an idea??Barry L

Barry, you could thread the hole in the bell housing (if not already). Make a threaded aluminum rod and thread into the hole (use red locktite), Cut off flush. Drill the new hole in the correct location and thread if necessary. Friend of mine did this with one of the rocker stand holes that was miss drilled in one of my heads, works great.

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

How about rotating the transmission?


Lawrenceville, GA

Barry.  I don’t use that particular bellhousing bolt on the FE to Y-Block conversion.  I’ve deemed the countersunk allen-head bolt used to fasten the adapter to the back of the block of higher importance than having that particular bolt in place.  At this point, the five bolts on the bellhousing is sufficient as the majority of any twist at the bellhousing puts stress on the two ½” dowels that actually aligns the bellhousing.  I’ll add that when mating the PG tranny to the FE in the conventional manner, the same issue arises and that particular bolt is not used at the block.  As Charlie mentions, rotating the transmission is also another option.  I did that on the Roadster with the PG tranny to Y conversion by clocking the transmission in a clockwise fashion looking from the back.  Just made sense if I was going to reclock the tranny to put the shift lever on the high side rather than force an oil leak from that point.

 

Mike's suggestion on plugging the hole and redrilling is also a good one.  In my case, the car can be swapped back and forth from a Y to a FE so that option is not viable without a second bellhousing.  But nothing says the hole can't be slotted in the mill and then using a stud with an appropriate washer over the slotted hole.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

 Hi  Thanks for the suggestions....hadn't considered just leaving the bolt out, probably what I'll do. At first I thought of slotting the hole in the block to align with the bell, but that particular block hole below the starter is already hanging out there....hate to risk cracking that ear off. Ted, you are right in that the dowels take the load, so maybe the slotted block would work and use a bolt and nut thru the bell,adapter and block.  Didn't want to drill the bell with a new hole and chance losing the SFI rating. Man ,what a slow project.    Barry