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What block should I use? 312 or 292

Posted By eglknight 14 Years Ago
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eglknight
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Hello. New to this site. I have a few questions about starting a build. If we suppose that I have a good 312 block and crank along with a 292 block what route should I go. I know I can use the crank for the 292 with modifications.



Thanks,



Paul from Ventura CA.
paul2748
Posted 14 Years Ago
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From a replacement parts angle, the 292 might be better. I doubt they are much cheaper (if at all) but more plentiful.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

PF Arcand
Posted 14 Years Ago
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If the 312 block & crank assembly are good, then you can go for it. However, check the block carefully for possible problems with stripped bolt holes or cracks in the main webs area, caused by over torqueing. Also, some parts such as main bearings are more expensive. And possibly also the rings for regular pistons. For prices check John Mummert's site at www.ford-y-block.com or his occassional Ads in Y-Block Magazines. Others for parts are Egge Machine or Schumann's Sales in Iowa.

Paul
314
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if i had a good 312 i would stick with it.
Rono
Posted 14 Years Ago
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I'm sure you will get different opinions on this question. You will need to evaluate the condition of the two blocks carefully. If the 292 block is a C2AE block, and in good condition, I would seriously consider that one for the build.

Just my two cents worth.

Rono

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/4a19e870-e870-4f63-a0a4-db5b.jpg  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID



speedpro56
Posted 14 Years Ago
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If the 312 mains are good I would go with it for myself just for the reason I like the integrity of the cylinder wall thickness over the 292s or 272s. I'm speeking of only my experences with these engines from sonic tests including C2 blocks. I also like the 312 stroke over the 292 because of the torque however you can spend the extra money and cut the 312 mains and rear seal area down to the 292 specs and use the 292 block and bore it to a 312 etc. So in this case the 312 may be cheaper even with the extra money money for the main bearings.

-Gary Burnette-


NoShortcuts
Posted 14 Years Ago
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I agree with what has been said previously. I suggest thinking about your choice in a different way though, too. Consider what you want this engine to do. How will you use it? What will it power? Then consider how much money you plan to put into the build.



IF you need cubic inches, starting with the 312 you can get to 317 (.030 over) or 322 (.060 over) fairly cheaply with just boring the cylinders, buying oversize pistons, and having the assembly rebalanced. A 322 y-block is a different animal than a 292. For street and highway use, I'd use the 312 block, even if it's totally stock. IF you want to strengthen the bottom end, drill the main cap holes deeper (like the later 292 blocks), tap the holes, and use ARP bolts or studs. You can get these from John Mummert.



The advantage to using the 312 crank in the 292 block is that you're less apt to have problems getting the rear seal to seal or stay sealed. BUT, to accomplish this, you've got to have the 312 crank mains, oil slinger, and rear seal areas ground to 292 specs. $$$ The specs for this machining work can be found on John Mummert's web site, www.ford-y-block.com If it's an early 292 block, as mentioned above, consider drilling the main cap block holes deeper (like the later 292 blocks), tap the holes, and use ARP bolts or studs. After reworking the 312 crank to fit the 292 block, you'll need to use the 312 rods (they're .072 shorter than the 292 rods) and have to modify the 292 piston skirts because of interference problems. Yes, you can bore the 292 block to 312 standard or 312 oversize dimensions. As was mentioned previously, have the block sonic tested before seriously overboring any block. Core shift when making or pouring the sand mold is the problem that significant overboring uncovers. You've got to bore .050 just to get to the stock 312 bore diameter! $$$ Whatever modifications of this type you implement, you'll need to have the reciprocating assembly rebalanced.



John Mummert's web site has a tremendous amount of helpful information on it. Look at the 'Technical' section and the subheading, 'Parts To Look For'. The search function on this 'Forum' is a treasure trove, also.



Hope some of this helps you in getting started. Smile



Regards,

NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York


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