If you don't run the engine over the winter then NO condensation "builds up". And some people think that condensation in fuel tanks is a "Myth"



http://www.yachtsurvey.com/myth_of_condensation_in_fuel_tanks.htm



The worst thing you can do with ANY engine whether it's a Y-block, marine or any other engine, is start it up and run it briefly "to keep the battery up" etc.



That will absolutely put condensation in the crankcase which will end up in the oil.



If you're going to start it and run it you should drive it long enough to get up to operating temp (long enough to completely heat the oil and evaporate the moisture).







Not really....it depends on where you park it. I park mine in the garage right next to my Y-block. It doesn't experience any more moisture than the other engines sitting in the same garage.....but the "stuff" I don't use during winter gets the oil changed before I park it.....












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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

I'm glad to hear that guys!  I know I've read some people saying that condensation can build up over the winter, and that is why changing the oil first thing is good, but I can't imagine that a relatively short stint (i.e. 5-6 months) would do anything detrimental to the oil or allow for excessive condensation that wouldn't be burnt off very quickly.

In the end I'll probably change the oil a bit sooner than my normal routine, but I didn't want to feel guilty in the meantime!! 

Boats are a completely different deal, alot of moisture and suspect seals. A car in storage depends on where you are storing it, and temps, humidity. I think dumping perfectly good oil just because it sat awhile is nonsense. Run last years oil till you get to 2500-3000 then change it.





thanks, Mark

Howdy,





I would probably treat any car that isn't driven much (and parked for long periods of time) like I do my boat.



Change the oil at the end of the "season" (once a year).



That way, you don't have contaminated oil sitting in the engine all winter.



There'd be no reason to change again in the spring......(the engine hasn't been run!!)







As for the trans and axle, I would just get any brand of SAE 75W-90 gear oil and change both.



If the engine sat for a LONG TIME, I would probably pull the dist and turn the oil pump (CCW) with a hand crank or variable speed drill to prelube the engine.





Loved the video!!





Rick






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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

Ghost,

I don't know the correct answer, but I can tell you that I store a couple cars every winter and I don't change the oil each spring.  Based on the miles I put on them I'd be changing the oil every 200 miles if I changed the oil each spring ( I know I need to drive 'em more).

For my sake, I hope the answer that you get from others is that you don't need to change your oil!

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

Hi all. 

1st off, congrats on the maiden voyage Big and for sharing it with us!  That's always a very exciting time.

2nd, I had a quick question and didn't see the need to start a brand new thread....coincedentally this one seemed to fit quite well, though the amount of time sitting is drastically different!

I just got my '55 out of storage last weekend.  Flushed the radiator and changed the oil (+ a quart of Lucas) right before putting her away for the winter.  She sat for about 5, maybe 6 months.

Do you guys here recommend immediately changing the oil again, or can that wait for a bit? 

Nate, good job -the video was cool. Mark





thanks, Mark

alright...I did as everyone said....and I drove her out of the garage!  Can't wait to get her titled and insured so I can actually drive on the street and see what it is like going around a corner!  It felt more like driving a tractor than the cars I'm used to...the clutch pedal travel is hillariously long! And I'm 6'6" tall so get my strting-bean legs in concert and keepin' the knees out of the way of the steering wheel is quite a site!

The video isn't that great...in the dark...but it is the Maiden Voyage (for me anyway) I'll get better video when I actually get to drive it on the street.  Plus the dark hides the rust and the headliner falling down inside the car and the yellow glue where the dashpad used to be.  The valve covers are off the car right now...so you get a good listen to the valvetrain!

http://youtu.be/tzm3Vaa3-TU

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

Oil that is identified 80/90 is good for both trans and rear axle.

  

How to drain? - There should be a plug on the bottom of the trans, maybe similar to the one in the rear.



You fill it and check the level by another plug located on the side of the trans. It should be filled to the bottom of the of the fill plug hole. You check it by sticking your finger in the fill plug hole.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ