Do this with a cold engine! Yes, you will need to loosen all three screws. If the cap is still tight you may have to remove and clean up inside but I wouldn't do that right away. Its particular about how it is reassembled. Once you get it to turn move the throttle to wide open and then turn the black cap. One way will open the other will close the choke flap. Adjust the flap so it has about 1/4" clearence to the air horn. Now when you start the car you push the gas to the floor, usually once, and the choke will close up making the car easier to start and idle. There is any adjustment screw below and behind the black cap (hard to see) that can turn up the idle only when the choke is closed. That should help your stalling and starting problem. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Moonshadow...say no more, as soon as I read the word "chemical" I knew why I don't understand and never will.  I'll just believe it, thanks for the reminder on the positive cable take off!  I seem to forget everything in these moments of excitement.  One time I just got an engine installed and started it up excitedly, only to walk around front and notice the trans cooler line wasn't hooked up and the tranny fluid was pumping out onto the floor...I instinceively just reached in and grabed the trans line.  Only later did I realize ther was no fan shroud installed yet and I had come within half-inch of sticking my hand into the fan.

No I haven't adjusted the choke..but I noticed that it was 40 degrees out and the choke butterfuly seemed to be wide open before I started the car, that black cap on the choke is very tight...so I think I have to adjust those three screws so i can turn it some.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

I don't know the chemical terms but when the cable is loose and you crank the engine it will arc and cause a loss of connection. I think it was something about the gasses released in the arc. So after several tries you lose connection entirely until you twist or move the connectors. Also causes a high amperage draw through the battery and cables. You definately need to replace those cables.

Also, on a safety standpoint never disconnect the positive cable first. The arcs is causes can cause a battery to explode. Always pull the negative first. Battery explosions can be violent and then there is all that acid flying around. The bad connections may have even have been involved in the stalling problem. Have you adjusted the choke yet? Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Moonshadow...yes you busted me.  The battery cables clamps are so old they are not really "clamp-able" anymore, the bolts used to tighten the battery cables to the battery posts are frozen.  So I just twist the cable ends onto the battery posts as best I can.  I know this is not cool (niether was forgetting to turn the lights off when I did it), and although I know you're right that this can cause problems, I've never understood how/why it causes problems.It would make sense if the lights flickered, or if I had low voltage that didn't spin the starter, when battery cables are loose, but why a complete loss of power? 

When this happens to me on the ford, I will be able to start the engine a few times with no problem, but then the third (or fourth or whatever) time I turn the key and there is a click, or almost a thunk, and everything just goes completely black and it is like I don't have a battery at all.  Everything is gone...no dome light, nothing.  it is hard for me to imagine this is only due to the loose cables...there must be some other component involved that is creating an open circuit until I disconnect the battery and hook it back up.  Is it possible for a solenoid to "stick" in some half-way position that would create an open circuit to the entire car?

Like I said I know first hand poor battery connections can cause wierd unexplainable problems...I just like to understand things, if anyone can give me an theory (or acutal answer) that help be keep me occupied until I can get back out to the garage most likely this weekend.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

Nate - When you get the car outside for all of this cleaning the boys recommend.....use a solution of baking soda and water on the bits of corrosion you find (battery connections and so forth). Its a time honored mechanics remedy - and get a small jar of Vaseline to coat the freshly cleaned surfaces. The "V" stuff is actually somewhat conductive as well as protective.

Another thing to collect up (they are reasonably inexpensive) - is one of those "disconnects" that fits on the ground cable / battery connection. When clamped between the battery post and ground cable, it looks like a green knob that can be removed to open the circuit on the ground side. It allows killing electrical power when the vehicle is un-attended or you want to be sure no sparks can jump.    

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Make sure the battery posts and cable ends are clean and tight.  Sounds like a loose or dirty connection. 

Butch Lawson

Manchester,  TN

I noticed in the video that you pulled off one of the battery connections and put it back on. This could be your problem. Both cables have to be clean and tight. Also clean and check the connections at both ends. Don't forget the cable that goes from the solenoid to the starter. They need wire brushed or scraped clean and tight. Make sure to clean the post on the starter too. I've seen many a Ford not start because of the starter connection. Sometimes a wiggle will help but thats just a sign that cable service is needed. Is the car still stalling or did it run ok on the street after it warmed up? Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Thanks Guys!

I will check some of those electrical connections now that I can driver her out in the sunlight!  Makes it alost easier to see.  The battery is brand new, and I wouldn't be surprised if the solenoid is original as the car has only 30k miles on it.  It could however be loose/coroded internally.  Also I wil likely get some new battery cables as the insluation is quite shrunkin on these old ones, and cleanin gup the electrical connections will be a good/fun task and make me more confident to taker her out on the street.

Now I just have to steal some more time!  This weekend is already booked up pretty good with family/kid stuff.  If I could get her licensed and registered I could driver her home/work etc.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

If everything "goes dark" when you hit the key, it isn't the solenoid.  Everything gets power at the solenoid where the battery cable and the #10 wire connect to the solenoid post.  A poor connection there, or a bad battery cable or dirty post will act like that.  Does it have the band aid cable ends that bolt onto a cable with the original clamp cut off?  The connection between that clamp and the cable can also be corroded.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I agre about the solenoid for starting point.Get yourself a new one IF the one on there is original or old.Mount it properly to the side apron.I am assuming you have a known good battery and the generator is recharging the battery?Good to here you got the old girl driving.That will give you some more ambition to carry on!