Nate,I just today removed the thermostat housing from a 292 that's been sitting for 20+ years.The thermostat had the spring broken it and would have allowed a small amount of coolant to pass through.You may have something similar happening.

 

Paul,

Boonville,MO

The actual pick up point for the temperature gauge is on the driverside head, about over cylinder seven on the intake side. Your infrared sensor can be used on that point (the probe is brass and sticks out of the head) - and compared to the gauge reading.

I think things will change for the better when you put in a thermostat that works.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

It was in the 40s outside, probably 30s in the garage...went under 40 the nightbefore and this was early in the morning.

I'd say it ran for 5-10 minutes.  I got nervous when the temp gauge was all the way at the H....I'm not sure how accurate the temp gauges are...or where the needle should ride once th engine is warmed up.  After shutting it off I started her back up just to see what would happen and the radiator did not appear to be getting warmer after another minute or two...so I shut her back down.

I would feel a lot more comfortable if I had an aftermarket temp gauge so I knew what was going on.  I'd had to srew up this engine by overheating it before I've even had a chance to drive out of the driveway!

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

It could be that the t-stat actually tried to open - just not very much opening, so it only started filling the upper hose. How many minutes did it run and what was the outside temp?

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Thanks Hoosier and Greenbird,

It sucks not having my car at my house, so I can't go look at it, I just  have to visualize everything.  I definitly saw the bypass hose now I know what it is.

So you do you guys think that even with the t-stat closed enough heat would conduct through the t-stat (conduction through the metal) to heat up the water on th eother side of the t-state in the upper hose?  That upper radiator hose was pretty warm, i'd almost say hot.  I didn't check with the thermometer but it was nice and warm to the touch all the way up the hose.

I know you guys are all probably thinking..."just go change the stat and find out if it works".  I am going to I promise...but it will likely not be until this weekend so I have to sit all week in my office and just think about it...you guys are the outlet for my thoughts!

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

And to add on a couple more water paths......

There is a 5/8 "bypass hose" coming out under the thermostat and directly back to the top of the water pump. So that when the engine starts cold, there is a "short circuit" to recirculate the coolant for a while and raise the engine to operating temperature. This flow path being right under the t-stat housing makes the engines heated water travel to that point and when there is sufficient heat coming to it - heat and open the t-stat. This is what I think was happening - the t-stat was stuck and you were only recirculating water.

There is a vacuum operated valve on top of the intake manifold (the front crossover water passage), directly behind the thermostat housing - that goes to the heater. A control valve under the dash throttles this valve when heat is required by the interior controls. When the interior valve has failed - it used to be common practice to replace the vacuum operated water valve with a 90° hand shut off - on for winter off for summer sort of arrangement. Water from the heater returns to the upper passenger-side of the water pump.   

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Nate:

Yes, the hot water comes up the top hose, down through the radiator, and the cool water goes to the water pump and back through the engine.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

So does the coolant flow from the top hose down to the bottom of the radiator or vise versa?

I'm still trying to decide what it means that the top hose was hot...but the radiator itself and the lower hose were cold.  Could this happen with the t-stat closed?  How would the top hose be hot if the t-stat were closed?

I suppose it could be partially opening or something like that.  Dang...now I can't wait to get back and try a new stat.  Thanks for the tips.  I will be careful of corroded parts.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

There is supposed to be coolant in the top tank. Just not up to the top of it. The level should be about inch or so down from the top.



I agree about the thermostat - replace it. NAPA # 6.



You can check the radiator for a clog by putting your had on the fins after warming up. The temp should be pretty much even all over. If you have cold spots, the radiator need service.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I did drain a bit of coolant from the petcock and replaced with some new fluid...just so I could feel like the coolant was at least half new.  The coolant in there didn't actually look too bad...forgot to take my coolant tester.  It could've been replaced 6-7 years ago when my grandpa and a friend got her running in an attempt to sell her.

So if coolant drains out the petcock, does that mean the radiator isn't plugged up?

The lower hose isn't collapsing, it has a spring in it and the rubber is soft, I can squeeze it...but it kept its form during this test.

I didn't realize the coolant isn't supposed to be in the top tank.  It was definitly too full becuase even cold that top tank was almost full.  What do you make of the coolant suddenly rising into the filler neck as the engine warmed? 

So does the coolant flow into the top of the tank from the t-stat?  Or does it flow into the bottom?  Would the bottom hose only get hot once the T-stat opens? 

I will definitly get a new t-stat in there.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan