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Smoke coming from pushrods when valve covers off.

Posted By Big6ft6 14 Years Ago
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Big6ft6
Posted 14 Years Ago
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So I've been running my 272 with the valve covers off so I can watch for oil flow.  (And becuase I want to clean up the valve covers before putting them back on.)

When I'm running the engine there is some exhaust/smoke coming up through the pushrod areas (I think) it is enough that I can see it coming out and it lingers around under the hood etc.  This is coming from the crank case right?  So is that all blow-by?  Is this normal?  Are my rings shot?  Anything I should be worried about?

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin
 
56 Ford Customline Sedan
 

Doug T
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Hi Nate,

What you are seeing is a mix of water vapor, oil vapor and probably some blow by.  I am guessing that you have not built a new engine but have started up the existing engine in the car after it was sitting for a long while.  Assuming that the oil has been changed, oil pressure is OK and the coolent is circulating in the engine you should let it run for long enough to get to normal operating temp. 160 to 190F depending on which thermostat you have.  Some of your piston rings can be gummed in place and not sealing too well or the oil rings are not removing the film of oil from the cyl walls enough.  As the engine is run more it is likely that it will run better & smoke less.  But I started up an old Y several years ago and even though it stopped visably smoking much after a few weeks of light use, there was a still a wiff of old nasty smelling hot oil around that motor as the oil gunk in it continued to give off vapors. 

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.


Big6ft6
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Thanks Doug...I won't be too worried then.  This just gives me even more incentive to get out and driver her!

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin
 
56 Ford Customline Sedan
 

oldcarmark
Posted 14 Years Ago
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More than anything else it needs a good long drive.I dont know if you have fresh oil and a new filter on there but you should.Get some miles on it so the crud gets cleaned out.Then change the oil and filter again.Are you getting oil at the rockers?

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glrbird
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Maybe this is a good time to bring up the type of oil you are using. the y-block has a flat tappet cam and lifters. They need zinc which is being eliminated for todays oil for engines that use roller lifters. An additive like ZDDP ( Eastwood sell it) or a racing oil is needed to limit the friction between the lifter / cam lobe area. Good start on your project.

Gary Ryan San Antonio.TX.

oldcarmark
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Several members(myself included) are using Shell Rotella-T 15w40 which apparently still contains sufficient ZDDP to not require additive.Easy to come by at Walmart.

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Hutz 292
Posted 14 Years Ago
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The blow by smoke is normal because these engines do not run pcv valves.  All the crank case pressure and blow by are vented to the atmosphere.  On an engine with pcv the blow by gases are pulled back into the engine by vacuum.  On the oil types I have been using Joe Gibbs Racing oil.  It is specifically engineered for flat tappet cams.  The oil has high contents of zinc and phosphorous.  It is 15w-50 oil and is engineered for engines that may sit from time to time.  That eliminates engine were on dry start ups.  Maybe take a look online at his oil.  I have been very happy with it.

Robi

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Reading this last post reminde me that there is a filter in the road draft tube that should be checked and very likely needs replacing.If it gets plugged up (which after all these years it probaly is) can prevent the motor from venting properly forcing vapours upwards out the oil fill cap.Just unbolt the cover cannister and check it.Replacements are available for about $10.00.You might want to take the whole assembly off and give it a good clean so the oil drainback tube is clean and allows oil to drain back into the crankcase.Its held on with 2 bolts after you get the cannister off.Check your shop manual for more info.

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PF Arcand
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Further to Marks advice, the air inlet for crankcase ventilation is only thru the oil filler cap. Often the screen & filter material is plugged with dirt & oil residue. Ensure it's clean & will actually pass air. If really bad, replace it..

Paul
Big6ft6
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Road Draft Tube?  Oil Drain back tube? Cover Canister?

I got the filer on the oil fill cap...I can picture that but the rest these other things have me baffled...at first I thought you guys were starting to pull my leg like check the blinker fluid or making sure I've buttoned the last button when buttoning up my engine.

Is the Road Draft Tube the same things as the oil filler neck?

I do have a shop manual at home, if all these things are in the glossary I should be able to find them.

There is new oil and a new oil filter on the car, and I did buy some ZDDP additive but haven't put it in yet...I was thinking after driving a few dozen miles I might change the oil again (Assuming there is a bunch of gunk that is going to come out) and didn't want to have to throw away that additive since I only have one bottle left and I'm lazyHehe

Yes I have strong oil flow in the drivers side valve train and very minimal...but some flow in the passenger side.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin
 
56 Ford Customline Sedan
 



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