The best estimate from a quality shop here in New Hampshire is $8000. That is for repair and paint only. The car was to bare metal on the last paint and rust spots are minimal. I though that was sort of expensive at the time but I've seen what $1000 paint jobs look like! Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I'm paying $8K for a to the metal job on a 55 of another brand.(I won't curse here)  I did all the panel repair and also paid for media blasting.  I admit I had to grit my teeth when I said yes, but I've seen examples of this guys work and it's top notch.  I like to drive my stuff but what finally sold me was the fact that once you have great paint/bodywork, it costs the same to fix a ding whether it's great paint or just mediocre......And, paint/body work is the FIRST thing someone sees when they look at your car.  I've got a huge amount of personal labor in the vehicle for little custom touches and I won't have it spoiled by average paint.  Go for it!

With a bare metal strip remember your going to find 50+ years of 'interesting' history revealed. Brace yourself (financially) for some possible hidden nasties.

Good luck

Richard

Well, with how much I'm investing in it. I'm planning on driving it often, might even be my daily driver in the end. But.... I wanted it down to bare metal, because once I get rid of all the cancer, I shouldn't have to worry about it down the road.

William



1957 Ford Fairlane 500

292 Bored .30 over

Fordomatic

Apache: If the car has little rust in it & you intend it as at least a fair weather driver, not a Trailer Queen, why are you having the car blasted & taking it down to bare metal? Seems on the surface of it to be overboard. If there isn't underlying problems with the existing paint, like evidence of contamination or general bubbling etc., seems to me that you could keep the cost down by not going the trailer queen route... For example, my Son in Law & I spent about 6 weeks (as he was available, I'm retired) repairing, sanding & prepping my 57 car, after I removed nearly all the bright work.(windshield & back window & their locked in trim was not removed) Then to keep the cost down, (a shop wanted to remove all 4 doors..which I had spent hours previously adjusting to work properly) So, I fashioned a balloon masking job on the inside of the door jambs, (the headliner, dash & so on was in the car) & we bought enough primer & paint, so my Son in Law could paint the inside of the doors, jambs etc with a touch up gun. Did the same for hood & trunk. He then fully primed the exterior & we re sanded again. Then we hired a local shop to paint the car in two tone, similar as new. We had them do it in what I believe is a single stage Acrylic Urethane paint. All they had to do was clean, mask & paint it.That cost $1800. Total cost was about $3000 or so & that included me paying rent on the garage while my car was in it. It's not a concours job, but it's quite nice and no one has ever said it doesn't look good... And further, I'm not petrified to drive it!.. Something to think about..

Paul

Well I can't have that happen. I can't afford being out of commission another 8 months. The main reason this vehicle is being built is because this car was used in my parents wedding. I'm restoring it to use in my sisters wedding. In almost exactly one year to-the-day from now.

William



1957 Ford Fairlane 500

292 Bored .30 over

Fordomatic

Paint and body work costs a bundle.  Not being able to afford it I did most myself, learning along the way.  After more than 2 years of not having the very good condition hood painted, took it to a shop.  1K with no mounting or fitting.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Re paint.panel quote Apache got, i dont know material /labour costs where he is, but believe me when it comes to the work in baremetal paint job, particularly refitting and aligning panels after blasting, then repairing them and refitting, and then painting, and again refitting and aligning for last time, including the interior paint work, theres a lot of time doing it properly which is hard to see, which = $cost. Then theres the paint job, pay once for good one or pay twice later for mexican job? My advice is to ask relevant questions of repairer before hand so you dont expect more than you,r paying for. good luck. regards bill.



  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Sorry to say that seems about right.  It better be top notch though.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

I'm in FL. I'll get back to you guys with more info.

William



1957 Ford Fairlane 500

292 Bored .30 over

Fordomatic