I would be sure to keep the original radiator. They can be fixed by a good radiator shop. Have you priced brass radiators lately? They are hard to get. I would drain the block using the block petcock, remove the upper and lower hose and TStat, and heater hoses from the engine. Then flush it out with water. Flush the heater core separately but don't go to heavy on the water pressure there. I don't use any of the flush stuff sold on auto parts store shelves. Some it always remains and can corrode the cooling system. If you are brave and a glutton for punishment you can knock out the freeze plugs and flush out the lower block around the cylinders. Beware..this can lead to more stuff like replacing hoses and clamps, TStat, cap, water pump, belts, etc. I leave the highest opening to the cooling system disconnected on the engine when filling to push air pockets out.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

100% agree with Aussie Bill.

You bought a brand new rad, you have the old one off the car, why not to flush the engine? I did it when had my radiator rebuild, and the benefits far outweight the efort.




Túlio Lazzaroni "FORD", Florianópolis SC Brasil.

'74 Ford Galaxie 500 292 V8

'82 Ford Galaxie Landau 302 V8

'98 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6

'01 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec

Rob, i,m sure others will agree its just commonsense to flush the block to avoid any small flakes etc blocking your new investment.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Well after letting a local guy talk me into recoring / rebuilding my rad, it sprung a leak at the top tank seam AGAIN!!!!  (the guy is giving me my money back) It is coming out for the last time this weekend as I broke down and bought an aluminum rad off ebay. It arrived yesterday and looks good, lets hope it works!

The car has never overheated and usually runs right at the halfway point of my gauge. I also run a 7 psi cap and the car has never puked. Fist suspission was I had a leaking head gasket, but test prove otherwise. (Besides, wouldn't that pop the 7 lb cap??) This guys soldering looks good, I chalk it up to weak brass on the tank, any thoughts????

Well hopefully the aluminum rad solves the problem, my question now is, when I swap the rad, do I have to flush the block? Some have told me yes, others have said no, just use the "yellow"  universal antifreeze and I'll be fine?

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!