Well I am new to adjusting the valves on a Y block...but Ive done it many times on a solid lift Big Block Mopar with an Isky cam. I did a search on here and found that "Ted" had posted several ways to do it. My question is: Will the same way i adjust the valves on a Big Block mopar work on a y block? Here is how I do it on a big block mopar: I take the valve covers off, I start hand cranking the engine, when I see a valve compress I crank it until it very slightly starts to come back up (very slightly) and I adjust the one next to it...I do this until all are adjusted. This method doesnt matter if its the exhaust or intake valve and you can start anywhere as long as you keep track of the one's you have done. (I know it works great because I run the big block very hard.) Will this method of valve adjustment work on a Y block?
here is what ted posted (his way is similar but still very different):
There are several methods in which to set the valve lash on an engine with solid lifter
valves such as the Y-Block Ford.
I’ll go through some of the methods I use and others can chime in with modifications to my comments or different ways to achieve the same thing.
Valve lash will vary depending upon the camshaft being used but if it’s a factory stocker, then 0.019” lash (hot or cold) will get you where you need to be.
Otherwise, use the specs supplied with the camshaft you’re using.
Method 1:
This is one of the simpler methods in which to set the valve lash and will not require finding top dead center (TDC) or be concerned about the firing order. But this method does require knowing which valve is the intake and which is the exhaust for the cylinder that the valves are being set or adjusted. Identifying which valve is which for a particular cylinder is merely a matter of looking at the ports, intake and exhaust, and alligning the port in question with the valve stem to be checked. Upon identifying the valves for a particular cylinder, then it’s just being able to bump the engine over with the starter or turning it over in a clockwise fashion (viewed from the front) with a wrench attached to the damper bolt. Having the spark plugs removed will allow the engine to turn over easier but is not a prerequisite to performing this operation.
To set the intake valve for a particular cylinder, then bump the engine over until the exhaust valve for that same cylinder just starts to go down or depress. If the exhaust valve has started back up, then you’ve gone too far in which to set the intake valve for the cylinder in question. Upon getting the exhaust valve at the “started down” position, the intake valve for that same cylinder can be adjusted to whatever feeler gauge or lash setting you’re using. Upon completing the adjustment for the intake valve, then bump the engine over until the intake valve has fully depressed and has almost come completely back up to the closed position. At this point, the exhaust valve can be set to the desired lash. The order in which to do the cylinders is not important as long as all the cylinders have had the lash adjustment procedure performed. Do this to all eight cylinders at which point you’re through.