As a general rule, I prefer head bolts over the studs in a car application.  Studs may prevent the heads from being removed from the block in the vehicle due to clearance issues around the master cylinder and/or heater area if the studs cannot be first removed.  Studs also increase the level of complexity that is not necessarily required on an engine that does not get torn down regularly.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Rono.  I’ve seen those tools but never had the opportunity to add one to my tool box.  On my end and when using composition head gaskets, I don’t re-torque the head gaskets.  If it was a factory steel shim head gasket, then Yes, I’d go to the trouble of re-torquing but never had a reason to do this with any of the modern head gaskets.

 

I’ll add that during the cylinder head testing on the dyno mule I experimented with different sprays and/or coatings so I could attempt to reuse the composition head gaskets and found that WD-40 actually works quite well.  The set of composition gaskets that are currently on the dyno mule are being used on their fourth set of heads.  No issues whatsoever on the first three sets and only time and continued testing will tell on this fourth set of heads being used with the same set of head gaskets.  That engine is currently set back up for some additional exhaust tests that have cropped up.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Yeah, it has been awhile but I remember I had to take off the rocker assemblies to retorque the heads after break in. I was wondering if the studs with nuts would allow clearance to do this without taking the rockers off.  Another question are the studs be a better choice than the bolts for fastening the heads to the block in general?

2 or 3 years ago I saw one of those tools on ebay, it may even have been from Australia. I got it (not for a crazy price either) and found it works very well.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Rono

I think you saved yourself $150. I have three different designs of these tools, from Sidchrome, SnapOn and Mac Tools and none of them make it easier to torque the bolts under the rocker gear. The Sidchrome spanner was specifically made for the locally produced Holden/Chev and worked a treat on those engines. I always remove the rocker gear to retension heads. They do make it easy to retension the bolts under the exhaust. If I could get $150 for all mine I'd be happy, though I am not planning on selling them. They are good conversation pieces.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

Ted;

I was following an Ebay auction a couple of weeks ago for a tool (from Australia) that actually curved around the rocker shaft so that you could re-torque the head bolts with the rocker shafts in place. I actually bid on it, but it sold for a crazy high dollar amount (about $150 if I remember right). Did they ever produce anything like this in the states or have you ever fabricated one?

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

But in looking at your original question, you could be asking about head studs so here’s another response covering that.

 

The nut design for the studs will likely dictate whether the re-torque of the heads is easier to accomplish with the rockers in place.  A 12 point nut will likely help in this regard.  A six point nut likely will not gain you much if anything over the stock head bolts.  A smaller than stock headed head bolt will also do the same thing as a 12 point nut on a stud in regards to clearances around the rocker shafts.  The aftermarket head bolts I use for a Y use a ½” socket and these can be had in either a 12 point or 6 point design.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I'm assuming you're asking about studs for the rocker arm assemblies and not the cylinder heads themselves.  Studs for the all the rocker stands would help for what you’re trying to do.  The torque values should remain the same.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I was going to put some rebuilt heads on my 272.  Would rocker studs allow me to re-torque the heads without having to remove the rocker assemblies?  Would the torque be the same?  Appreciate help.