Just put my y block together.  It fired right up last night.  Today it will not start.  I am getting gas and spark.  thoughts?

Recheck the basics. Remove # 1 plug,make sure its on TDC .Make sure the timing mark is lined up on the harmonic balancer .Remove dizzy cap and make sure it is lined up & pointing to #1.If all of the three things  check out ,you have fuel & compression you should have fire in the hole !!!!!!!!

Lon

yblocksdownunder

ok did all that, still nothing.  check the coil,  which check out.  points and condensor next? 

Had it running,  park it outside for 5 hours,  could not start

Was fresh gas, clean tank and new filter used when firing it up the first time?  Old gas can start an engine, but form heavy valve stem deposits when shut down, causing valves to stick.  Just a thought.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Messure the volt in the circuit from the ignition switch to the coil, it may be a bad conection ore a cut some where. Old gas burns bad, but you should be able to start the egnine with it.



Robin Norway

Condenser will flake out like that, start one minute then not the next, especially when hot.



Not to sound too pessimistic, but did you have a manual oil pressure gauge on it when breaking in the cam? I rebuilt a 144 six last year with a new oil pump and driveshaft, but had a bad distributor gear with rounded out hex for the oil pump drive. I primed it with a speed handle before stabbing the distributor. I started it up three times and shut it down immediately thankfully since I had a gauge attached.

I know you can't save them all, but I'm tryin anyway!

If you have spark when cranking does it try to start?If it does but wont start check the ballast resistor.Initial voltage to start when cranking comes from the bypass circuit from the "Ï" terminal on the solenoid.After you release the key voltage is supplied from the ignition switch through the ballast resistor.If its burnt out-no voltage when you release the key.

  

did you make sure the plugs are new and are gapped right?ive had a motor that started every once in awhile...couldnt figure it out, the inline clear spark tester that hooks to plug and plug wire showed spark, but the pre gapped plugs from parts store were not gapped correctly and wasnt throwing spark in cylinder everytime...just a thought.

here is where I am at.............new condensor, points, coil and plugs.  Tested compression ( running from 120 to 130). I have lot of flame coming out of my passenger header and a bogging sound.  Whats next?

With flames coming out your exhaust , it sounds like your ignition timing is severely retarded. Get number 1 cylinder on Tdc, do this with the rocker covers off, it will be when number 6 cylinder valves are on the rock, ie the exhaust is just closing and the inlet is just opening - and with the ignition turned on and the lead from the coil to the distributor held close to earth, turn the distributor by hand til you get a spark. Then check that number 1 plug lead lines up with where the rotor button is pointing. What you are describing sounds like the common mistake people make when first timing these engines (though you say you have had it running). at the very least it sounds like your distributor has moved - was it tightened in position?

Hope this helps.

Regards


Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!