Boy do I feel stupid.I finally decided to work on the car again. Loosened the generator to get at the wiring. Traced the wiring from the generator to the regulator and at the regulator the field and armature wires were on the armature terminal. It was charging over 30 amps at idle.

Funny how not looking at something for 2 1/2 years allows you to see more clearly. If it doesn't rain this weekend, I'll get to drive it again.

I must have gotten the wiring mixed up the first time I changed regulators.

  Dennis in Lititz PA

Update #2

I put bigger jets in the carburators and went to Numidia Raceway on saturday, the truck ran awful. Way too rich. The car generator gave out at some point, don't know which pass.

I changed back to the smaller jets, put new plugs in and it was backfiring in the exhaust for me. I was getting worried as we're leaving thursday. Tonight I discovered #7 and #8 wires were crossed.

I have to put the truck generator back in then we'll be all set for Columbus.

Maybe later in september I can work on the car.

  Dennis in Lititz PA

1st update:

I took the generator to the shop the week, and they said it's ok.I pulled the truck generator and put the car generator in and it's charging in the truck. I'm glad the generator isn't ruined. Next step I'll check the wiring from generator to regulator in the car.

  Dennis in Lititz PA

They do make 6 volt, positive ground alternators.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Yes, it's the regulator that limits the current output (amps) as well as voltage. In the regulator there is a coil that is wound with heavy gauge wire, all the output of the generator armature wire flows thru this coil. If the current goes above a safe level the coil pulls the contacts open and that places a resistor in series with the field causing the generator output to drop of momenterly. Once the current drops the contact closes again and the output increases, this happens about 20 to 30 times a second the contacts actuly vibrate.

This usuly only happens at high RPM's because as we well know a generator at idle cannot even keep up with the current draw of the headlights.

My 56 has an alternator as I am planing on adding A/C and electric radiator fans, does not help you 55 guys who are 6 volt. The 6 volt system in a car with only factory accessorys can be made to work, just needs larger gauge cables than you find in an auto store.

If anyone wants to know how to do the alternator conversion I had prevously posted it here, I used an alternator from a Ford Escort (70 amps) and it bolts up without to much trouble. Do a search for it, If you cannot find it I will post it again.

ok. so heres a question. is it the regulator that limits the amps output of the generator?

I'm thinking too I need to check the wiring from generator to regulator.Putting in the generator from the truck produced the same symptoms.I'll keep you posted. Thanks

  Dennis in Lititz PA

Pinto: I'm hardly an expert here but, I think Kev has nailed it!  Theres likely a short or lack of continuity in your generator/regulator harness & your generator is running out of control! Two or three regulators can't all be bad.  As mentioned, grounding should also be checked & don't forget to polarize any new regulator.    

Paul

Dennis,



Is gen. light staying on after you remove key?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Pinto

Another thought, If you remove the field wire at the regulator does the charge rate go to 0.  If not you may have a short between the Armature wire and the Field wire in the harness between the regulator and the generator.  If these wires are shorted together the generator output would also be providing the field current and the output would be completely unregulated.