So today the car started stumbling under load. 

Right away this morning things were wierd.  She started fine, but when she was cold if I pressed the gas pedal the engine would almost die, like a cold outboard boat motor this is too cold. I had to sit in the driveway and slowly add throttle to shake out the cobwebs.  This hasn't happened any other morning?  This morning might have been a little cooler but not much.  Once she warmed up, it was much better, but would still happen at higher rpm or under load.

I drove all the way to work but was really worried, anytime the freeway started to incline I would get random coughing "popping" stumbling.

It is worst when she is cold, after work when I started her back up I could hardly go up a small incline with the engine coughing/stumbing and backfiring out the exhaust.  But as she warms up it gets better, but still happens when I get on the gas going up even a small hill or if I get too high in the rpms it'll happen.  If I don't use too much throttle I can avoid it.

But somethign has definitly changed, the first few days of driving her I was LOVING the low rpm torque, but now if I get too low in the rpms and then give throttle she submbles and backfires out the exhaust.

Should I be looking at the distributor?

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

Does the choke work?

This changed so fast  - it seems like it must be a carb problem. A good cleaning with spray carb cleaner might be in order.

You just worked over the tank and fuel line correct? Is there a filter in the line to the carb now?

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Nate,

Sounds like the last time I left my manual choke on and didn't realize it. Check your choke for binding. Probably cold enough to get to a place where it hasn't been for a while.

Cheers

Warren 

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

When was the last time you filled the gas tank? Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Sounds like the carby is running too lean. Is it better with choke when cold or do you not have a choke. Check that your fuel filter, if you have one is not blocked.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

I vote for a carb/choke problem too. Also check the intake heat crossover passage for being plugged. We yblock people in the northern states need an open exhaust crossover passage to prevent such problems.

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

Nate:

This is a long shot.  In the process of getting it running, did you put new points in, I don't remember?  If so, did you put any lube on the cam/rubbing block?  If not, it is possible that the rubbing block has worn prematurely and the point gap is closed up.  Take a look at the point gap.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I have a newly rebuilt carb, and the choke was working beautifully.  When I left work last night, it was so bad, I could hardly get the car going up the small hill outside my office.  I limped up the hill, drove down the street, things started to improve as the engine warmed up a little, but were still bad.  After a few blocks I pulled into another parking lot, pulled off the air cleaner, and the choke was wide open, but the engine had started to warm up already so I assumed it was supposed to be open at that point.

Here are some answers to your questions:

1) Gas is less than a week old

2) Carb is freshly rebuilt, I don't have any additional filter on the fuel line

3) Choke does open once car warms up, I haven't checked to see that it starts closed, but I assume so since the car starts well

4) Car starts perfectly, one push of the pedal, turn the key and VROOOM..she roars to life.

5) This problem, although it improves after car warms up, still exists well after I'm at operating temperature, it is just a higher rpm or under load

6) I tried to check timing, but my balancer doesn't have any timing marks anymore, just solid rust

7) I have done nothing with the distributor, it is the original distributor I assume.  Getting into points and stuff is a new frontier for me

8) Forgot to add (thanks moonshadow for reminder), the fuel system is completely new, The only part of the fuel system that isn't new is the pump itself and the hard line from the pump to the carb.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

The gas could be suspect. Thats why I asked about your last fill up. How long after did the problem start? It usually takes a day or two for bad gas to start taking affect. Possible add a bottle of DryGas and see if it helps. Also check the fuel filter. Since you car sat fo many years it may take a while for any accumulated crud to work its way out of the tank and lines. The fuel filter will show if there is any problem there. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

***********Update***********

Went home over lunch (it is 60 degrees F).  Removed the air cleaner so I could watch what happens.  When I pumped the pedal once before starting the choke closed appropriately.  When I turned the key the car started immediately, but then quickly died!

In my initial post I forgot to mention this as one of the new symptoms.  It doesn't stay running if I start from cold.  Up until yesterday morning If I pumped the pedal once, and turned the key, the car would start right up and stay at high idle.  I could drive away even before the car warmed up without problem.  Yesterday morning was the first time it died right after starting.

Now when I start it cold, if I don't give it some gas it dies in a few seconds. However if I push the gas pedal too much it also stumbles and dies.  I have to very carefully feather throttle and slowly apply more throttle to get it to warm up.

I think all of you who pointed to the carb are right, something happened and it is running lean.  It seems when I'm starting from cold, the squirt of gas from the accelerator pump is enough to get the engine to start, but once that is used up the carb is running too lean to stary running even when the choke is applied.

How could this happen overnight?  Does this mean I likely have a piece of debri that found it's way into my carb?  What part of the carb should I open and where should I look first?  Since I have the old fuel pump it is possible some old gas goo was in there and it worked its way up into my  newly rebuild carb.

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan