The background - a 59 Edsel 292, 2 speed auto, 61K miles that had been sitting for 40 years (35 in a shed and the last 5 outside). I was hoping to easily get it running and fix it up as a neat driver just for short fun runs.  The engine has a lot of waxy black buildup especially on the rocker shafts/arms and in the valley. It does look original and untouched inside.

The engine was stuck and after a week of soaking the cylinders and not getting it to move I pulled the heads. #4 and #6 had a little (really only a little) rust around the edge of the pistons and a tiny bit on the cylinder walls. Another week of soaking and tapping with a wood block and still no luck. Long story short, I pulled the engine and it is completely disassembled in my barn.

This is my first y-block. I've spent hours in these forums and have learned a lot - what a great resource for an engine that hasn't been made in 45+ years! I ordered and received a Fel-Pro gasket kit, new water, fuel and oil pumps, rings, and a bunch of other stuff.

I still have a few questions. I will continue to search the forums but to date haven't found this info. My goal is to end up with a fairly reliable driver engine used for 1-2K miles a year. No racing (it's an Edsel!) and no long trips.

Cylinders:

• Most are smooth except #4 and #6 have small areas of surface rust. I removed the rust with 1000grit wet paper and oil. You can still see the marks but it feels smooth to the touch. I would like to measure to see what I have. I've found a dial gauge for $60 online - is it worth having? Are the Fowler gauges better then nonames? Fowler model 646-300 at about $80 or the 646-400 for $100. The only different I can tell is range.
• I'm leaning toward honing and new rings. I have new iron rings and a stone hone but I've read the ball hones would be better. Can I get good results with the stone hone?

Oil Filter Adapter:

• I'd like to remove it and replace the gasket so I don't have leaks. Is it a paper gasket (don't see one in the kit) or a rubber ring (3"?) The kit has two rubber ring gaskets that are about 3" in diameter, a thin one and a thick on.
• Is the center bolt that holds the adapter in place right or left thread? How tight should it be?

Pistons:

• Rings are stuck on 4 pistons. What is the best way to remove them without damaging the pistons?

Fuel Pump

• The new pump (with vacuum for wipers) just has a cover where the old one has a bowl and filter. Do I just add an inline filter or should I move the bowl from the old pump? If inline filter should it be before the pump, after or both. I do have a brand new tank (not cleaned and lined - new and shinny) and new gas lines.

Exhaust pipe valve:

• The old exhaust pipe valve (to aid in engine warm up) is seized shut and unlikely to ever move again. I cannot find a replacement (Rock, Macs. 123, Joblot) for the 292. I did see one listed for the 332 - is it the same size (with stock manifolds)? Can I just cut the inside flap out and use it as a spacer so the pipes line up?

Engine Gasket Kit:

• I know the kits are made for more than one engine but I thought I'd asked about a couple items so I don't miss something. The kit contains a copper o-ring and a copper spring washer (both 7/8" ID). Where do they go? There are also two 1/8" rubber rods about 2 7/8" long with molded flat rubber rings (washers?) at a 90 degree angle at one end. Where do these go?

That's it for now - Sorry it's so long and thanks for any help. With luck I can get it back together between Thanksgiving and Christmas!

John

Quote: Oil Filter Adapter:



I'd like to remove it and replace the gasket so I don't have leaks. Is it a paper gasket (don't see one in the kit) or a rubber ring (3"?) The kit has two rubber ring gaskets that are about 3" in diameter, a thin one and a thick on.

Is the center bolt that holds the adapter in place right or left thread? How tight should it be?



John,



The extra/same-sized gasket may be needed for the early filter cartridge assembly (?). I'd use the thicker one (installed dry), or Prestige T-Birds sell an even thicker one. You should also read Walt Nuckels' instructions re: reshaping the filter adapter plate to avoid leaks. Or, you might try one of the new alum. billet plates sold on eBay.



Quote: Exhaust pipe valve:



The old exhaust pipe valve (to aid in engine warm up) is seized shut and unlikely to ever move again. I cannot find a replacement (Rock, Macs. 123, Joblot) for the 292. I did see one listed for the 332 - is it the same size (with stock manifolds)? Can I just cut the inside flap out and use it as a spacer so the pipes line up?



If you live in a northern climate, and plan to drive in sub-zero weather, replacement valves ARE available from T-Bird parts suppliers (just make sure you don't install it upside down, like it's pictured in the exploded diagrams). Otherwise, cut out the flapper or buy an inexpensive spacer from the same parts sellers. Graphite may keep the flapper from seizing in future, and you can tie it up in summer in case it starts sticking again.



Dan

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

John,

Why is it that people want to buy old cars and only spend pennyies doing the engine. Then only to find they have an unreliable, oil burning, peice of crap,  Then spend thousands on replacing it a new engine from another model or make Blaming the engine that they originally wrecked. When it was them who were to tight in the first place?

If you have hammered on pistions they need to be replaced. if you have forced turning a stuck engine you will need to replace bearings.

Really for about $2500 -$3500 you can rebuild a y block removing the minimal amout of metal from bores and journals. It will start, run and drive like a new engine and will last several hundred thousand miles. Or find a good second hand runner.

Do it right and do it once. 

Warren  

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

Well, I would have to say I did not wreck this engine.  Whatever has been done to it was from nature and time!  It sat for 40 years without moving - not good.

John

Well said warren, maybe not totally in this case but more often than not.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

hes only driving 1 or 2k a year.ive rebuilt y blocks for less than 200 and had a nice engine.its all about cylinder wear.

If pistons were hammered because rings were stuck. The chances of the areas around the ring of being damaged are extream. Bearings in this case easily or already damaged.

Replacing rings and bearings on a good running engine can extend the running life of an engine but this one was taken apart with a hammer and block of wood.

I don't mean to be harsh, you probably have good core parts, just take the time and spend a little more to get it right. You'll get the reliability you need and be able to drive it when and where you like.

cheers

Warren 

    

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

I do appreciate the help here.

First, I'm not a redneck hack (no offense to red necks!) but I don't know of any magic to get stuck pistons out of a block.  I tried different penetrating oils for weeks to see if I could get them out without much force - it didn't work.  I pulled the engine turned it over and removed the crankshaft and then had to hammer out #4 and #6 with a wood dowel.  If there is another way that would be practical I'm all ears.  The other 6 came out as they should - tight around the crank and pushed out of the bore with a little pressure.  Actually #6 came out with just a few taps.  I did have to hit #4 pretty hard!

The mains look good and I've looked at them closely - yeah, I know to be perfect the crank needs to be checked for round and the bearings plastiguaged.

I don't know of many people who want to spend money when it is not required.  Again, I'm not aiming for a race or even show car engine here.  Just lookiing for something that runs well in a driver car.

And sure I could have taken the whole thing to the machine shop and given them a blank check but what's the fun in that?

John

John,

I agree with most of what you are saying. BTW the hammer and wood trick is reasonably accepted. Just be carefull with what you reuse.

I accept that you are not reponsible for 40 years of neglect but as an owner rebuilder you are resposible for how it goes back together  

Quote:- " I don't know of many people who want to spend money when it is not required.  Again, I'm not aiming for a race or even show car engine here.  Just lookiing for something that runs well in a driver car."

True but this is one of those areas that get expensive when you have to revisit them. You may be able to find some replacement pistons on the list but while you have the engine out why not rebuild to to the best of your ability and within you budget.

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic62652-3-1.aspx?Highlight=cost+rebuild I though this was a bit

more detailed.

Good Luck With it.

Warren

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

I've talked to a couple machine shops in the area and I will be taking the block and crank to one to clean and measure (at least).

I just priced oversized pistons and ran into a huge price difference and was wondering if anybody had an idea why. Several places have what look to be standard pistons (not performance) for $280-$300 a set (Sealed Power 1022P) but one placed linked to from parts123 lists B5A-6108 pistons for $100 a set.

How can there be that big of a difference?  I've emailed and asked the supplier but thought somebody here might know.E RELIABLE PARTS COBSOLETE

John