Update-the electrical problem fixed it self.  Dont know how or why but today everything works.  I can only guess that what ever wasn't grounded decided to ground itself.  The speedometer works and they should put the "oiling hole" on the bottom instead of the top.

Greg

Grumpy; On the very top of the speedometer behind the needle is a small oil hole, It is hard to get to from under the dash, but you can use a mirror to see it. Try some WD40 or a similar type oil and let it set for a day before you try turning it again. I lube mine about every 2 years and it still works good. I use a hypodermic needle filled with light oil to do this.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Old Y block

Using a 12 volt test light probe on all connections should quickly pick up where the problem lies.

The problem may partly be a poor earth on the dash to body - just create a new earth by looping from the dash to the body (this would explain the lack of dash lights clock etc but would not explain the ignition circuit. Instal a new earth from the battery to the body. Also make sure someone hasn't fitted a fusible link in the line from the solenoid.

Sometimes when you short a circuit, a connection that was barely making contact will fail completely. If you have lost all power including ignition, check the wires are tight on your starter solenoid first, then check the connections on the light switch. There is a fuse on 55-6 headlight switches - check that also, though from memory this is only for dash and interior lights. Finally check that the connections on the ignition switch are tight. By the end of this you should have power. If not loop a wire from the starter solenoid to the battery terminal of the ignition switch. This is the main feed to everything on 50's Fords. If this fixes it this wire is broken due to the short circuit, though this usually does not happen. Hopefully then everything is alright.

Electrical problems can be a PITA to find but starting at one end and working through it will find the problem

Sorry if this was a bit longwinded

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

I installed the instrument cluster in the dash and everything worked.  I crawed under the dash to fix a broken wire that runs to my temperature gauge (mechanical).  Two things happened, i arced the amp gauge with the shop light, and 2nd i reattached the light wire to the gauge.  After that the car lost all power.  No clock, no dome light.  I disconnected the temperature gauge light wire and crawed out.  No lights, no break lights, nothing.  No power what so ever to anything.  I checked and rechecked every wire and every fuse, i jumped the battery to the solenoid and the car turns over.  Out of frustration i banged on the dash and to my surprise everything came back to life.  That lasted about 1 minute and then it died. 

The only other thing i touched was the light switch.  I was turning it to light up the gauge lights.  If the switch has failed would it give these symptoms?  Im thinking it may be a loose ground wire or connection (but what one).  Anyone with any ideas.

Thanks-Greg

Good to know it was not a broken speedo part.Just needed to be freed up.Just try and soak up any excess oil as it will pickup dust etc.I let mine sit overnite positioned so any excess oil would drip back out.

  

Don, i tried that idea with an allen wrench.  It wouldnt budge with moderate force, and i didnt want to turn it any harder and risk breaking anything, or stripping the input shaft.  I will admit that if i would have used more force it may have worked.

So today i bit the bullet and pulled out the gauge assembly.  The hardest part was getting two tiny nuts that hold the assembly to the bottom of the dash.  I took the speedometer apart and sprayed it with remington gun oil.  That loosened everything up and the speedometer seems to work as it should.  The gears turning the odometer were a little warn and i would like to have replaced them.  I got everything back together and will install tomorrow.

Greg

While I wouldn't necessarily recommend this, I tried turning mine with a small screwdriver and it broke loose easily. Checked it by spinning it with a drill and modified allen wrench. It turned out that the speedo gear was completely worn out and the cable had been still so long that dust and whatever had only slightly jammed the head unit.



Don

If you are not using the car right now my suggestion still is take it out and see what is actually wrong with it.If its similar to my 56 speedo head there is not a mechanical connection between the input and the needle.It is a spinning magnet that applies magnetic force to the part that makes the needle read the speed depending on how fast the input turns.Does anyone else know if thats the same setup as the 59?I just had a look at a 59 speedo head on Ebay.It appears to be the same as my  56.If the input is seized you should be able to free it up wth some WD-40 and then a LITTLE machine oil(very light).

  

Check out EBAY and Craigslist they are up there all the time. Chuck

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1956-Ford-speedometer-Works-freely-good-used-condition-driver-quality-56-/380393113871?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item589132490f

I don't think you want the one listed for $500! Wow! Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I replaced the broken cable with one from auto zone.  When i installed it the crush on end piece broke off when i drove the car.  Thats how i found out that the speedometer was frozen.  I don't want to send it out to be fixed, i was hoping i could fix it myself.  But what do i do for replacement parts.  Its as if your being forced to pay someone else to fix your speedometer only because they have the parts and you dont.

Greg