Guys,

I need a little help. I have installed a one wire GM alternator on my car with the AC conversion.

I attached the "One wire" to the battery side of the starter solenoid. I also eliminated the generator cross over wiring. I did not remove the regulator. This was done a month ago and all was well until yesterday. I was tired of seeing the gen light glow while driving, so I took out the bulb. Car started, however when I turned the key off the engine kept running. My tach would shut off when the key was off but the engine would continue to run. When I moved the key to the ACC position the tach would start to read again. I attempted to put a bulb back into the generator socket and couldn't get it in. I then tried the key again and the car shut off.



Gremlins or what?? Could I have been getting some feed back to the coil? But where? Do I have to leave a bulb in the socket? No Bulb in the socket now and it will shut off. I'm afraid to drive it far and have it not shut off again.



Let me know you thoughts.



Jim

  Jim Rowe Elkhorn, NE

Jim:

If it happens again, pull the small wire off the starter solenoid terminal marked I.  If it dies, then the starter solenoid is the culprit, the bypass contact that supplies 12v to the coil for starting is not opening.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Thanks John



Jim

  Jim Rowe Elkhorn, NE

If you are not going to run the voltage regulator - I think you'll have to completely disconnect it. It has too many "tentacles" into the electrical system and can operate backwards when things aren't functioning according to the original scheme. The lead that is "turning on" your generator light is bypassing the key switch and operating the ignition when the key is off. When the bulb is out - this can't happen. On the GM cars you usually have to install a diode to get this to stop. But that will leave your light on .... I think.

I've been looking for a good way to fix the charging light when using the GM "one wire" and I'm thinking about using the Ford wiring scheme I found on my old Cougar project. It used an indicator light and diode to determine whether voltage was going from the car to the battery -  or from the battery to the car and was tapped into the sytem by isolated contacts. If the internal system was higher volts than the battery (feeding it) - no light. If the inverse were true, battery volts passed the diode and turned on the light. The ignition switch opened the contacts so that everything switched off properly.  

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Steve,



I only had the problem after I removed the gen bulb. You state by doing this bulb the car should now shut off. It shut off when the gen bulb was in place and glowing brightly. The reason I left the voltage regulator in place was for the stock appearance and the horn relay attaches at this point.



It has shut off the last two times I have driven it with the bulb out.



John may be right about the solenoid.



Thanks

  Jim Rowe Elkhorn, NE

As long as we are on the alternator subject. I have a couple of one wire marine alternators. Don't know the brand right now. I was wondering if they would work in the car? I'm currently running a regular alternator with external regulator. When I stop at a light at night with my lights on and the brake pedal pressed my dash lights will start to pulse on and off. I did find if I put on either turn signal it quits. The ampmeter also pulses like the regulator is searching. Any Ideas? Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Had same problem with similar setup recently.  Performed the test John mentioned (brown wire on solenoid for a '56 car) and engine quit.  Replaced the solenoid and all is well....

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL