No.

Edit:  This is of course assuming that the big end bore hole size is round when the rod bolts are torqued in place.  If the hole is not round, then resizing is necessary.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted, I understand and will have them resized. Dumb question. If you pull the rod cap and do not remove the bolts from the rod, is resizing necessary?

That’s a definite ‘Yes’.  Any time a connecting rod bolt is removed and another is reinstalled, then rod cap shift can take place simply due to the bolt finding a new ‘center’ upon its reinstallation.  Where the rod bolt shanks are knurled, then the concentricity issue of the shanks to the threads definitely requires rod big end resizing regardless if it's the original bolts going back into their same holes.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

If you are measuring at the deck, I would think things other than the rod length would enter into your measurements. Pin to piston fit is fine. Few miles on the engine since originaly built in '69. Actualy the rod and main bearings still look great. I would not think twice about reusing them but since I wanted to go with ARP rod, main, and head bolts, it made no sense not to go with new bearings. Shop will also drill and tap the mains for the slightly longer ARP main bolts from Mummert, deck it, and hone it. As I said, small town labor is cheaper than the big city. There is another good shop near me that is also very good, but larger town and higher prices. Got a lot of good references on this guy and word of mouth is usually a good yard stick.

I havent heard of a resizing price that inexpensive.  One machinist I have worked with describes the process as an art, often poorly performed.  Only a few shops around can assure rods to end up of equal lengths.  I had a set sent up to a large facility in Central OR, and they came out within .002 in., as measured at the deck, which I think is excellent.   One set of resized rods on hand is all over the place length wise, work done by dont know.   Hopefully yours is talented.  Dont forget the pin bushings and sizing pistons to pins.   

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Talked to my local machine shop guy today. He also recomends resizing them. $8 each for $64 total. Cheap insurance. Thought cost would be higher but this guy is reasonable. He is in a small town near here and has great reputation in the area. Builds a lot of stock car engines for the local dirt track guys.

bills right ive just had my big ends re sized best thing ive ever done engine turns beautiful by hand before with new bearings it would turn but was really stiff & i think that maybe what broke my drive plate

moz. geelong victoria australia.

graduate 1980, bus, truck, car, hot rod, boat, submarine, hovercraft, hydrafoil, firetruck, mobile home, jet, helicopter, cruise ship, motorcycle, bicycle, santa's sleigh, clock, alloy bullbar, alloy fuel tank, lens, dr who's tardis, matter - anti matter warp drive buffer & y-block lover

Simple answer, YES! if you want to ensure no problems with bearing wear and rod alignment, otherwise dont do it and be forever worried.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

I know it would not be a bad idea to have them resized, just want to know if it is necessary.

As I recall, the ARP bolts don't exactly fit right outta the box anyway-some minor work has to be done there anyway. But I will defer to the Pros in the know. Like AussieBill said they should be resized IMHO for what you're doing.

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