Have the crank grinder take an old grinder wheel and narrow the edge ithe blade cutter or find a narrow wheel.   It only needs a step ground off the wheel.  Buy only narrowing a step on the end of he wheel, the wheel is still strong and they only have to remove a small amount of material of the wheel.

I offered to purchase a crank grinding wheel and have it narrowed.  They took an old wheel put a narrow step on it and charged me a small fee to grind that area.  

It looked perfect when done, and now they have one when I need it.  They have already done it for other Y-Blockers now.

Pat

Pat Fleischman

I have been looking again at John Mummert's sheet on dimensions and noticed with more interest that the EARLY 272-292 cranks didnt have a slinger.  That would mean the blocks didnt have a groove either.  The block is a 1956, so it is likely a slinger wont work, but cant say for sure since it is assembled and in use.  I think I'm going to call the shop and tell them to remove it.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Mike,

       Mummert had the same issue a couple of years back. I THINK (careful there) that he finally went to Comp Cams in Memphis before he found some one willing to buy or grind a stone that thin. Pretty much a fact of life that if you remove the slinger it's going to leak some, even with the 292 seal.  Call him or Ted to get it done, unless you have a big enough lathe.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

'46:

I turned the diameter a couple thousandths big before polishing it.  Also, I forgot to mention, turn the OD of the slinger to 292 size or it may hit inside the groove in the block.  I used the 292 neoprene seal.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

The block the crank would go in is a '56.  It has a thick rope seal and it seems like the neoprene type wouldnt work.  Maybe that would make the slinger even more necessary.  Any thoughts on that reasoning?

Regarding turning the seal area on a lathe, did you (John), turn it to the spec and then polish, or slightly above spec?  One more.  The 292 slinger calls for 2.80 inch diameter I think.  Would you make it that or slightly less to allow for any discrepancies.

My mechanic helped me check the crank runnout before taking it to town and it looked pretty good at 1.5 thou.

Thanks Charlie and John

Mike 

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

'46:

I'm not on my way yet, but I don't have nearly as far to travel as the Texas gang.  I have turned the seal area on a lathe and polished it with emery cloth.  Works fine.  I feel that Ford engineers felt the slinger was needed, or they wouldn't have gone to the expense of machining it on there.  Of course, we have better seals now than the old rope seals.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Yes my timing on the post was too quick.  Everyone is one their way, or getting ready, to have a blast.  Willing to wait.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

From all accounts that I have heard, removing the oil slinger is not a problem. I would for sure use the modern rubber rear main seal. It seems to me that turning the slinger down with a lathe before turning the journal would be the way to do it. I know Ted has done several of these and can give you more info, but he maybe on his way to Columbus, you may have to wait until next week for him to reply.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

I took a 312 crank into the local crankshop to see about having it machined for a 292 block.  Everything was going well until we came to the oil seal area.  He said he didnt have a stone small enough to take it down without removing the slinger.  Same story when he checked with a bigger shop in Eugene.  He thought it would not present any problem removing the slinger since most or all of the later model Fords didnt have them.

What will be the end result if it comes off?

I could probably have him do everything but leave the slinger and oil seal alone.  Then take it to a machine shop with lathe and they could take it down.  However, will the removal by a cutting tool give a good enough surface?

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.