On my 58 it popped right out, suspension hung, wheels free to turn, and I think I tilted it slightly upward and to the right.





thanks, Mark

I had posted on this a while ago.  I ended up using a long peice of threaded rod, threaded into the upper bolt hole.  Then you use that as a guide for the starter and install it with the bottom 2 bolts.  This ensures that the upper hole is aligned (which was the problem I had trying to get the top bolt).  Then double nut the upper threaded rod to remove it, and use a socket extension to install the top bolt.

As soon as I had that idea and tried it the top bolt went in very easily....hope this helps

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

I agree with Slumlord444, my working stock starter was fine only lower 2 bolts were installed, I switched to a mini having read about starter issues.  Seemed almost impossible to get the top bolt started (required on mini) and I had all front sheet metal off, keeping stock starter in case anything happens and only using lower bolts. 

Ted, Redding, CA

That top bolt can  be a bear. See a lot of starters with the top bolt missing.

i had very little drama with the starter on my Galaxie, which was stuck in the "engaged" mode. had the car up on stands with the wheels hanging and just wriggled it out.

refitting was a touch harder, as I had to lie across the motor to get the top bolt engaged. I think i used a pair of 12" extensions on my ratchet to get sufficient length.

look on the bright side, kids. the starter on a small block chev has shims to align it. now THAT is a stupid idea!!

Cheers, Taff

1959 Ford Galaxie 2dr sedan, 292 (just woken up after a 38 year sleep!)

Changing to mini starter as an upgrade having read about starter replacement difficulties before. Reread this thread, prior to removal as an aid.  Call me lucky but starter out in no more than 5 minutes once loose.

If it helps anyone, steering full left turn, passenger side only jacked, dropped front of starter down to almost vertical and out of bellhousing and rotated bendix easily toward passenger wheel and out by the tire.  Seemed to good to be true, but this was a good working starter, maybe made a difference.  Thought I'd type it before I forgot it, maybe help someone.

Ted, Redding, CA

As was suggested, don't replace the starter with a stock one - get a mini high torque, they are great. I have one in my 54 powered 312 and I wouldn't leave home without it.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I spent two or three hours trying to get the starter off my 1955 Mercury.   I jacked the car up so the wheels and steering linkage would drop down and turned the wheels in all positions but never could get it even close to coming out.  Then I loosened the lower two bolts on the left motor mount, removed the lower bolts on the right motor mount, jacked the right side of the engine up about a inch and a half the the starter fell right out.

buddy

You say that every now and then the starter just whirs and the next time it engages. This suggests that the bendix is not fully extended and not retracting but may just be lacking a little lubrication.

You could use spray lithium grease on the bendix and the shaft which may help to alleviate your problem. You could do this without removing it fully from the car.

It could also have something to do with your wiring to the starter. Make sure all the connections are clean and tight and that the battery is fully charged. These starters really on the strength of the starter spinning to throw the bendix out fully. They give a lot less trouble than the rat trap Ford starters.

Regards


Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

If you cannot remove the starter because the bendix is extended and if the starter will start the engine, bolt the starter back in place and start the engine.  This will retract the bendix.  Then without trying to crank to engine again, remove the starter.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"