Ted,

As others have said and I concur the first thing is to get a '57 or later distributor and have the cent advance recurved to give about 15 deg max dist advance all in at about 3000RPM engine.  This will allow you to have 30deg crank advance and to set something like 10 deg static advance for a total of about 40 deg advance at 3000+ engine RPM.  Check that the timing marks on the harmonic balancer are correct ie the engine is really at TDC when the pointer says it is.  Since you car is running OK it may be good but they can slip. Electronic ignition is all to the good and good wires are esential. People mostly use Autolite BF-42 plugs.

The intake manifold is an interesting question.  The runners in the '56 manifold are smaller than those of the '57 let alone either of John Mummerts.  But if you are running stock, used valve springs you probably will not be turning the engine that fast anyhow so the smaller runners do not hurt as much. I would recommend that you take the tapered adaptor and grind out the 4 holes to become two long slots in both the adaptor and the manifold.  Then look down into the manifold and you will see a'pinch point' where the lower runner dives under the upper runner.  This chokes off that area and can be ground out quite a bit. Then put at least a 1/2" plastic 4 hole spacer under the carb. Don't use the OFFY manifold.

You need to check the pushrods,  If they are about 1/4" dia they are the solid type and are pretty useless, any tubular pushrods are better even cheap chain store ones if you can still get them.

You don't say how the '56 came to have '57 ECZ-G heads.  However the engine could be an 292 or even a 272 and it would be difficult to tell.

BTW I am going to try to send you a personal message please check fo one

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

The '57 intake would be an improvemtnt. Mummerts will be better. If you don't have the '57 and later distributor, going to it with the electronic conversion will be a great improvement plus less maintenance. Put a Pentrox in my '57 and would never go back. You have the good stock heads and rocker arms. 4 speed is a plus. A totaly stock '57 312 in good condition and well tuned is no slouch on the street.

Ted

Again, until you are a lot clearer on your objective the unlimited possibilities here are overwhelming.

Start by finding out the axle ratio of your car. If your car does not have a tachometer then get one and see what RPM you use in the driving range you wish to improve the most.

It could be that a rear gear change will be the "best" choice. Or a camshaft change or a NO2 kit of FILL IN THE BLANK.

Until you can say what your after its just a guessing game. Pete

First thanksto all for taking a look at this and the advice is priceless when directed at one's own issues.  I say that because I read a lot and while invaluable doesn't always hit the point, and brings up the personal engine debate.

Bought the car built like it is with no history, runs fine as is, it is a 312 B7ME, maybe that BM part meant boat motor, some say maybe.  It was born a six cylinder in Long Beach by the plate. It does have the later distributor but it will be on the shelf, the MSD 8383 with wires on the way from Jegs, $530. 

Pete I don't really have a target improvement area, grew up with Fords two 57 300s at $25 each were my first cars, recapped tires, filtered oil, and gas at 25 cents a gallon.  Lose a tranny and buy another car, thats how it was 1965 when I started driving.   Car will be used as a cruiser, have other cars so don't care about mileage, not going to race anything just trying to stay ahead of the grim reaper.  Looking to make it as powerful as possible without addressing the lower end.

Headers appear to be out for now based on value, and it has the late model exhaust.  I thought I read an Eaton test on car headers that was a marked improvement for the passenger cars, still hope they're available now or coming soon.

Timing is being addressed, only had two timing marks on damper but ran well at the advance mark.  Bought a tape to apply to damper and will have better look at where this unit will set up.

Question now is Mummert or no Mummert manifold, and I'm leaning toward the purchase, will be an improvement and fit well if I later decide to go futher. 

Having a time with the site losing messages hope this one goes.

Ted, Redding, CA

Ted,

Sounds like you are well on the way. The Mummert manifolds are a definate improvement. I know there is a current waiting list so I would get on it! The other thing that will really wake up the car would be a set of gears although the 6 cyl may have come with 4:10's anyway. Sounds like a great project. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I seem to remember the numbers on the Blue Thunder manifold over a 57 4bbl manifold was 34 hp. The Mummert aluminum intake is a bit better than that according to Ted Eaton, but I don't remember the exact number of hp difference. As to headers, yes, they do make a difference. I have a set of Jerry Christensen headers which I have had ceramic coated (enhances them even more) and they are about as good as you can get to go into a passenger car without going to fender well headers. While not bargain basement price, you get what you pay for. Check with Ted Eaton, he has done exhaustive (no pun intended) tests on various headers on the shop "mule motor" on his computerized dyno. In fact, you should be able to search here and find that information as to what headers worked well and those that didn't.

Jim (site owner)
'56 Club Sedan - Ted Eaton built 429 hp '292/318, '54 Sunliner - stock '302

MoonShadow, waiting list is not what I wanted, reality check I guess, will call tomorrow and hopefully it will not be to bad.  Can pick up a late manifold on the auction if necessary.  I'm going to jack it up and see if I can calculate the rear gearing, certainly will help in understanding what this car is.

Doug T, solid push rods, will look to change them out now, manifold and valve covers are off to change the valley pan which was leaking and started this, along with the timing and accurate TDC, going to do anything good while I'm in here thanks for the heads up. 

Ted, Redding, CA

I was hoping someone would recommend what cam Ted should consider. Especially if it was a 292. i've already copied down all the other recommendations.

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia

Well my personal debate continues, thanks MoonShadow and Jim, for putting headers back on the table.  This Mainline is not a candidate for a true restoration and I like em shaved anyway, which after a little thinking puts fenderwell headers in play.  Has anyone cut up the fenderwells and put them in? seems like the fenderwell  headers performed well in testing, gotta look up the exhaust tests again, what an amazing resource are the Eaton tests.

Left message for Mummert about manifold will report back on the wait, got my fingers crossed.

The rear end is a 56 with a 3.73 ratio on the tag, right now it's OK with the T10, but we'll see what happens as progress is made with the motor, need more wheel time to really make decisions.

The B7ME makes me curious about cams, if in fact engineered as a marine application would Ford have specifically designed or chosen a particular cam?  Boat motors are in general torque motors to enable plane, just thinking, doesn't seem to be alot of info on the B7ME.

Thanks to all

Ted, Redding, CA

The "M" doesn't necessarily mean Marine.  I took one out of a '59 Mercury a few years ago, but M doesn't necessarily mean Mercury either.  That one was a 312.  I also have a B9ME block that is 292.  Some marine engines had reverse rotation, which meant they used a gear drive for the cam instead of a chain.  Saved them from casting and grinding a special backwards running cam and distributor.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"