Any work being done will be on the cap not on the tank itself. Unfortunately the cap I bought wont fit ..start again...aghhh.



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Be very careful working around gas tank.Any spark from a power tool etc can have bad results.

  

I checked the sender this morning. It was spotless no signs of anything leaking out, smelled ok. I tweaked the screws down a bit and sealed the cover over it. I noticed that the trunk lock had a little gap at the top so fixed that. The fuel cap I have is the type that has a one way valve so it can only suck in, guess thats like most types. I bought a cheap cap that will seal, I will make a fitting so it can vent and attach it via a hose to the venting tube. Also sealed as many holes on the firewall as I could find.. See what happens..



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Paul's correct on the sender unit leaking.

If the screw holes in the gasket are too large it will also leak along the screw threads even though the surface between the tank and sender unit is leak tight. The gasket screw holes have to be tight on the threads to prevent the leaking. I have seen this when people have made their own gasket.

marv

What you might want to check is the sending unit for leakage. The gasket does go bad and you would get a gas smell when the tank is full or nearly full because of the leak.





54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Jim:

The older gas caps, (pre-emission standards) had simple vented caps with no check valves, they vented unrestricted in both directions, so the tank neither saw a vacuum nor pressure.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Is it true that a "vented gas cap" means that it vents only when there is vacuum in the tank - i.e. you've pulled fuel out while operating and the vent replaces that with air? What about venting when the tank is pressurized - i.e. when it heats up sitting in the sun? I've not figured out how this is handled, if at all, in old cars. I think the carbon canisters and extra plumbing came into effect around 70/71.

Jim - Erie Colorado, 1957 Country Sedan

The fuel tank does need to be vented either by way of the original vent line or a vented cap.  Not venting the tank will give symptoms of a failing fuel pump or a line sucking air.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

The fuel tank in "Fanny" has been replaced and I can see the breather/overflow pipe is not connected, it just hanging there next to the opening of the fuel tank, the new tank doesn't have any way of connecting it up. Should I have a fuel cap that seals or a fuel cap that vents somehow? Would it matter?

I am getting a strong fuel smell, No leaks that I can find, and a new trunk seal. I usually get it when the tank is more than 2/3rds full and if I have people [load] in the car. if I open a window it really sucks it in. phew!



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"