Add to that that they make a really excellent "tuning manual." you get one with each new carb or you can purchase it directly from Edelbrock. It will explain what each part of the carb's circuits do and gives the modification steps to tune out each issue.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Edelbrock makes a tune kit for it's carbs. Available from Summitt, Jegs, etc. It will contain different metering rods and springs to help in tuning. Spring rates cause the metering rods to lift at different vacumm adding to performance or fuel milage depending on what you do. I believe the jets and metering rods are easily change by removing 1 screw and plate for each side on the primaries. The top needs to come off for the secondarys. Good Luck

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

There's been some concern about the "98 octane" fuel being used. Remember he is in Sweden. Octane is measured differently in different countries. My guess from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating is that his 98 would be 93 octane in the USA. Better than the 91 that I can get (which also is 10% alcohol).

Jim - Erie Colorado, 1957 Country Sedan

Im running an eddy 500.  Works fine.  Ive tried 2 holleys (a 390 cfm and a 465).  Holleys had a tiny bit better throttle response, but the eddy made more power at wot.  I keep coming back to the edelbrock.

I think it has the stock rods.  I went one or 2 steps lighter on the springs though, as i have a performance cam with lower vacuum.

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

Several years ago I ran an edel 600 ( I think) on a stock 292 55 bird motor. It ran well out of the box, and I drove it a couple years with no trouble. Edelbrock has a chart in the manual, with a tuning grid for all the different models/variations , showing the changes to go rich or lean in stages, and I believe also for full throttle and cruise. Been a long time.



I was told somewhere along the way that the difference between models was the air bleeds, which are not as easy to deal with, but no mention was made as to differences in Venturi sizes, if any. I worked on a 500 on a scub 265' and it did not tune well when placed on a 350' and the air bleeds were the problem. This was on a chassis dyno with a very experienced tech.



Based on those experiences, I'd trust their charts after I knew for sure which model I started with, and that that model was the recommendation for the motor it was on.



My notes are all for after I started blowing 5 lbs boost thru it, and there were major changes across the board. It always went rich over 4000rpm, again, probably in the air bleeds, but this was judged better than lean further down.



These are my recollections, I don't have the tech background to really explain them.



I don't remember a conversion for density altitude, temp etc., but I wouldn't go more than a step at a time unless something was really of kilter.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Our gas also has 10% ethanol in most cases. . Unless your compression is more than 10:1 you should be able to use 91 octane or less. There are many cars running the Edelbrock carburetors here, maybe someone wiill respond. It is a better choice for a street car than a Holley in my opinion

the quality of our gas is no good, they put up to 10% with ethanol in it.

No one who drives single 500?

I need to ask why are you running your car on 98 + booster ?? What sort of compression does your motor have,  10: 1 ?

My ol' motor is still the original 8.4: 1 and my timing is 14 degrees initial with a total of 38 degrees [no vacuum adv] its all in by 2250 rpm. With vacuum advance I think it was about 45-48 degrees. I run it on 91 no probs.. but thats Aussie fuel I have no idea how it compares worldwide.



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

The Edelbrock 500 is a very good and trouble free carburetor. Edelbrock includes some very good instructions for fine tuning your specific application

how about the carb, does enyone drive with single edelbrock 500?