Is the valve cover bent or distorted?  I wouldn't think you would feel the tapping on the cover unless something is hitting it.  Are there tell tale marks inside the cover?  With the cover off, do you still hear the same noise?  Sometimes a fuel pump can make a tapping noise like a loose valve.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

It would be a good idea to set the other side too. Y-block solid lifters are not normally real noisy but if your used to hydraulics it could seem louder to you. If there is a problem you want to track it down and fix it. No sense wasting a good engine. As far as the hardened valve seats go I wouldn't worry about it much. When you have to have the heads done then the seats can be replaced but the old style seats should last quite a while without problems. I'm sure some of our more knowledgeable folks will chime in here on the subject. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

thanks again Chuck and i found Walts method not only an easier method but beneficial. i dont have a good way of explaining how load or noisey the lifters are and probably would not have started this post if both sides were the same.  maybe i should open up other side of valve train, adjust using walts method, maybe then they will sound the same i ill quit whining.

maybe ill should a higher octane. i do hear the valves clacking when i accelerate from a lower rpm. maybe this is normal ,dunno. maybe timing not just right. not ever had anyone look into it. seemed to run pretty good after install and other stuff to worry about so never pushed the issue.

started this process to see if it makes sense to rebuild and install back up heads but if my compression readings are this high does that mean that the valves are seating fine. which was a major concern being that the valve seats were probably not hardened. are there other ways of sampling engine condition/wear without opening it up? or would it be a good idea go ahead with heads and have a look see when the top end is open?

Rear main leaks pretty good, not as bad as ive read about but i would like to repair it. i think would involve oil pan removal and maybe tranny, but would this also allow me to check condition of lower end? if so, what should i be looking for, and at what point does it make sense to do complete rebuild?

again this truck is my daily and only so I dont feel the need to have it up on the racks or my check book on the counter but also dont wanna overlook some maintainence/repair if it will allow me to keep rollin

maybe some sound/heat shield on the floor and a bit of music turned up,and an anti rattle kit from DC and door seals and a new windshield and seat springs with a new towel and (dreaming here) maybe a 3.73 rear end from a '72 (4.56 in house)so i can cruise at 50.

whatcha think? boyd

just remember at that high a readings you may have to go with a higher octane gas?

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Its really quite easy. Do you know which rocker is noisy? You can find out with the engine running by pushing down on the rocker tip to see which one quiets it down. Sometimes you can get away with a worn shaft by turning it over. All of the wear is usually on the bottom side. Also how loud is it? May be normal solid lifter noise. Again I highly recommend Walt's method to adjust all of the valves. It will work. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

thanks guys. decided to leave the mattress tags on after i saw video of someone finding 0.00 with that method. so ive adjusted my valves on the noisey side this way and seems its still noisey and you can feel the tapping on the valve cover. again, i do not have this on the passenger side.

what else could this be? thanks

If you twist the pushrod as you tighten the screws to 0 lash, you can feel when the rocker arm touches the valve stem.  The pushrod will stop turning freely when conatct is made.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Using Walts method you dont have to see or feel a gap. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Thanks guys . ill give ole walts method a try in the morning. if the rockers are cupped and they go down over the top point of valve stem, i think its gunna be pretty hard to"see" when they just touch. think i may use a flexible "feeler gauge" like tyvek" (or a mattress tag) to slip under there, note its thickness and adjust accordingly. ill get back with results. have a good week yall     boyd

Well, excessive play needs to be measured and the lash between the rocker and shaft has to be between 0,002"-0,004" for both 1,5 and 1,4 ratio rockers. This is acording to my shop manual.

What I have seing is more wear on the shafts than on the actual rockers.

If you really have this problem, never just install a new shaft on old rockers without carefull measuring the lash. You can always take the rocker/shaft assemblys off and send them to be rebuilt by a professional, that is going to install bronze bushings inside the rockers to restore their diameter, and then instal a new shaft. They also reground the rockers to eliminate the wear on the contact area with the valve.

Túlio Lazzaroni "FORD", Florianópolis SC Brasil.

'74 Ford Galaxie 500 292 V8

'82 Ford Galaxie Landau 302 V8

'98 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6

'01 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec