Thanx for the run down  - sounds like you are having some fun there!

Figuring out which distributor is in there will solve the "which Pertronix do I need" question...the older vacuum advance distributor - with the cap lifted - will show you two springs prominent on top of the point plate. And the base plate of the points unit will be "straight". Later versions with mechanical advance (hidden down under the point plate) will have a "curved" points base.

This is the older "Load-O-Matic" distributor - it requires a "venturi vacuum" signal not avaiable from the Holley 600.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

You will need the later distributor with both vacuum and mechanical advance-post 57 style to work with that newer style carb and intake.As mentioned if you can see springs on top of the advance plate you have original vacuum ONLY advance style which wont work with that carb set up.

  

Glad to hear you and the family are getting the Bird up and running. We'd all like to see pictures of the car and engine setup when you get to it.



On the subject of the mech fuel pump, FYI, on a bird with power steering, it's easy to get the pump on and bolted up and actually have the actuating arm NOT seated on the concentric cam properly. And the the pump either won't work right and appear to be faulty. I know this from experiance! It must go straight in to line up, and thats not so easy with PS bracketry in that area and the engine in the car.



Is the rear end set up original 55 spicer or is it a later 9"?

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Rearend is the original unit and has 4.10's in it. It actually came out of a 55 wagon. In the 60's it was a drag car with a 421 Pontiac in it and had a Chevy rearend in it. In the late 60's my Dad decided was time to put it back original and picked up a 55 wagon, of which he wishes he kept. It was a 2dr wagon!! Anyway, we're likely going to have to put some steeper gears in it so it's an easier cruiser. Maybe 3.08's or something in that range.



Meanwhile, we've got a new tank coming, fuel pump and some other goodies. Hope to get it running THIS weekend possibly. Then move onward. My only fear is this puddle of oil my Wife noticed last weekend under the car. Without going under for a closer look, I FEAR it's a rear seal. If that is the case, how challenging is that to replace with the engine IN the car? Can it be done? There isn't time to pull the engine to do this as we have a deadline. The big idea is to have it ready late this month or first week of June. We want to drive it to Gulfport Missippi (from St.Louis). My cousin is getting married and we thought it would be so cool to take The Bird for a roadtrip. If in fact it's got a bum rear seal, that will likely put the stops to the road trip idea . Tried searching around here on rear seal replacement IN car but only came up with a few posts saying people had done it. No real play by play on how this is accomplished. We'll see but hopefully someone can enlighten me



Aside from that, the only other scary unknown is the power steering system. I went through the pump and cleaned it and checked over everything else. However, again........my Wife noticed a leak at the bottom of the power steering pump. Soooooooo, I can almost bet ya once it's running the pump is gonna spew not to mention the lines and all that will be questionable. They were replaced years ago but years ago means like maybe 1965! We'll see.



Electrical will be the last exciting part. The Bird's life was a good one but underdash wiring has been modified, not hacked, just rearranged we'll say. Guess we'll start from scratch and put everything back where it's supposed to be and double check it all. That and replacing all the bulbs with 12V units. Interior wiring on back to the tail lights is fine. With the battery in it the other weekend, headlights worked, tail lights (less brake lights due to dead switch) some interior/dash lights, blower motor, etc. Engine bay is crispy from the big fire breathing engine (s) it had when it was a drag car. Will have to replace some looms and repair others for sure.



Should be updating later this weekend.



Thanks for all the help thus far. Gotta get ya'll some pics

Per the rear main seal, YES it can be done in the car. You may have to jack up the engine slightly (remove the front bolt mount, and loosen the steady rests, rotate the crank to remove the oil pan. other than that it's rear main seal replacement as per usual. try to get the neoprene seal in mho. Don't be surprised if you still end up without it being bone dry.



As far as the PS goes, the pump may leak BUT most likely hoses or fittings are more common culprits AND especially the PS CONTROL valve and ram cylinder. All capable of having leaks! unfortunately. But they can be serviced and repaired. Just keep in mind it's old parts and won't probably ever be bone dry. At least my stuff isn't. Good luck and still waiting to see some pics!

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

I have heard these old rope rear main seals may swell to some degee after a little run time, if that is where the leak is.   54 Merc 312

1954 Mercury 312

one more thing, don't let the rear seal leaking keep you from driving it unless its pouring out of course. do some test drives. These cars need to be driven to stay loosened up. Sure it's messy on the floor and such but you can always add oil & ps fluid cheaper and easier than repairing the seals for now. You can get that done in due time.

You may have more to sort out than you realize before the long trip (approx 1300 miles), so take it on some 50 milers around home to check and sort things out.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

So, digging around on the net and found the rear seal kit. Is this the one I'd need, and is it the neoprene? Can't find that info anywhere.



BS6141 is the Fel Pro part number.





Meanwhile, the fuel tank showed up as did the one headlight harness from Larry's. The Mac's goodies will be here Monday which will have the new fuel pump along with some other pieces. Hoping Sunday afternoon to get the tank swapped out, fuel pump off and ready for the new one and tinker with some other needed items. Haven't suggested yet to my Dad that the rear seal maaaaaaaay be leaking . Just freaks me out in only cranking the engine multiple times, it squirted.......not evening running! . We shall see.

The consensus on the site is the best rear main seal to use is made by "Best Gaskets".Seems to be the most successful replacement seal.There are several topics on this if you use the search box at top of any page.Apparently Best is also supplying a graphite type similar to the original rope type.Talking to a seller at a swap meet last weekend.Says he spoke to someone at Best who claims beter sucess with this new graphite even over their neoprene one.Anyone else familiar with this raphite type seal?

  

Redbird - just a side conversation here, maybe you have some blowby crankcase pressure sneaking into this. Does the engine have the old style crankcase beathers installed?

The more modern arrangement with the PCV valve and crankcase air entry at the front fill tube tends to work a bit better at keeping down the bleeding. 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona