I previously posted my heating problems with 65 Mustang w/289 that had been set up 20 years.  Tried everything and several of you suggested bad or reversed head gaskets.  I pulled the passenger side head and it appears to me the head gasket is the wrong type as you can see the front oblong water passages/openings from the block to the head were blocked by the gasket.  This is the front of the block.  The rear and all other water openings are not blocked.  What is the problem?  Thanks much.

Gary

The gasket has been peeled back in the photo.

Gary

Hard to see everything by a photo but the gasket appears to be leaking. I'm sure both sides need replaced.

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.

That gasket is installed correctly, open water holes at the back and blocked holes at the front.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Heating problem continues on my (early) 289.  In addition to changing thermosthat to 160 degree, new Chinese 3 row radiator, new head gaskets, several reverse fluchings, new radiator hoses w/springs inside, fan shroud, 4 blade factory fan, heater on, my car still gets too hot.  With hreat detector gun, temp is 218 at thermosthat area and 210 on top of radiator after short driving at 50 MPH ... would probably get hotter if I continued driving.  NOTE:  I have the EARLY 289 engine.  Could it be the head gaskets were different for the early engine??  Timing is TDC, tried 6 BTDC and no help.  AN suggestions greatly appreciated.

Gary

Let's not guess. Take it for a spin, keep it close to home and see what happens. If it turns out that it's holding steady at 218 then you really don't have a problem. It might be a temperature that you don't feel comfortable with but it's not too hot. The fan on my Firebird doesn't even come on until 240 degrees and that is functioning properly. It's not too hot until it is boiling over.



Did you investeigate all of the suggestions from the previous thread? I really can't think of much else.

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic72627-3-1.aspx


Lawrenceville, GA

Gary

One thing that will cause a car engine to run hot is retarded ignition timing. Advance your timing to 10 degrees BTDC with the vacume advance disconnected and plugged. Also make sure the points do advance when you put vacuum to the hose from the manifold to the distributor.

For years I had an Olds Cutlass that had to pass Calif Smog every two years and when I went in to be tested I had to reset the ignition advance to like 6 degrees BTDC from the 12/14 that I normally used. This caused the engine to run very very hot which helped it to pass smog. After the test I would re-set it. I normally had over 50 degrees total advance and that was OK.

Try more spark advance. Cheap and easy. Pete

Gary ,

 Did you have the heads shaved before you replaced the head gaskets ? Maybe one of the heads is bent from over heating . Also ,did you check to see how square the block is ???You can have your radiator pressure tested with an added chemical to see if any CO2 is entering your cooling system . Any good radiator shop should be able to help .Hope this helps

Lon

yblocksdownunder

Yes, I had the heads cleaned, some new valves, and head was shaved.  I'll try advancing the timing.  I'm also wondering if I need a 4 row larger capacity radiator?

Thanks so much for your suggestions.  Please keep senting them.

Gary

Looks to me like the gasket was blocking the water hole in the head. Is it on backwards?

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL