Hey Guys,

This is my first post here on this site, although I have read this page off and on for a while now. I am a little confused by the timing on my engine and was hoping to get a little clarification. My Father-in-Law and I rebuilt the 292 in my '60 F100 about 18 months ago. When we rebuilt the engine my Father-in-law set the timing for me and I never gave it a second thought because the engine runs really well. It is basically a stock rebuild except we had the cam reground to an RV cam, it has a 4 bbl Holley carb and headers. I am also running a stock rebuilt distributor. From my research I have found that the manual says timing should be 4-6 degrees btdc. I have seen some people say that timing should be 10-12 degrees btdc. When I checked my timing with a dial back light I found that it was approximately 20 degrees btdc. Is that crazy? Should I dial it back closer to 12 degrees? I set it to approx. 4 degrees btdc and drove it around the block, it seemed to run a little rough so I set it back to 20 and parked it for now. I have heard that you really need to use a vacuum gauge to time a y block correctly. Is that true? Thanks in advance for your input

Glad to meet you Mr Havard - hope you hang around. We have some help and some fun here!   

Did you check the timing with the vacuum line to the distributor on or off?  If you check that line - at idle - does it have vacuum or none? If you don't own a vacuum gauge or a digital volt meter (to accompany your timing light) - good idea to get your hands on them - if you are going to troubleshoot and diagnose your own vehicle.

Engines set-up for "live" manifold vacuum and with that line connected to the distributor -often have pretty high advance showing at idle. The Y engines do like to have at least 10° "initial" advance - with no vacuum advance applied - and at low idle so the mechanical advance is nil.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

If the damper is original and not rebuilt, the ring may have slipped and you can't know exactly where it is. Therefore, the indicated 20 degrees may be about right.


Lawrenceville, GA

And did you check the total timing with the vacuum advance unplugged?  This is typically performed by running the engine up in rpm until the advance curve finds its stopping point.  Besides the intial timing, there are several other timing attributes worth looking at.  The total amount of advance curve (both mechanical and vacuum) needs to be examined as well as the speed of the curve.  If in doubt about any of this, just ask and we’ll see about clarifying your questions.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

 

Hi, I did check the timing with the vacuum line off at the carb. I don't own a vacuum gauge however so I guess that is my next tool purchase.

 I have heard that recently, the 10 degree mark on my damper is right about center of one of the spokes of the damper and Ive heard that should be right.

I checked the timing without the vacuum attached, but I didn't check it while running the engine up in rpm. I will try setting it to about 10 and check that this weekend. Thanks for all of the replies!

Sounds to me like your father-in-law has already done a bit of "timing tune". I'm thinking the engine still has its "ported vacuum" system in place and he has simply turned up the initial to get it running smooth.

Many here have got their similar systems set up at maybe 14° initial - but then they have limited the total advance on the other end. The upper end shouldn't get to much beyond 36° of total mechanical advance.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Maybe the damper has shifted.Are they the same on trucks as the passenger car-timing marks on the damper?

  

I have the exact same thing with my 63 292 i was adjusting the timing with a vacuum gauge i am running a mallory mech dizzy--as i was getting crap gas mileage and slow throttleand waiting for it to ping and when I put the timing light to it i was sitting at 20* I have just been listening for a miss or knock. I chalked it up like the others have said to a slipped damper. I was

Taught by an old school mechanic to give an engine as much advance as makes it happy. I don't think I am in any danger of detonating the engine, but who knows. I did back it off to about 18* to be on the safe side. Starting requires a little ritual of throttle position, but I am running a 3x2 with original 94s. So that is to be expected

Also.

Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC