Which cam is the closest to the factory/Isky cam used in E Code Racing 285 HP engine applications?  Will an Isky E4, RPM-300 or   F-300 provide 16" of vacuum at 1200 RPM?  What would be the best performing cam for a .060" over E Code 312 with factory exhaust manifolds and 4.11 or 4.57 gearing?  I'd like to retain my factory valve train, tubular push rods, springs, etc., if OK.  Would new lifters from Schuman be the best for any new cam?

Paul J. - '57 E Code

Paul:

Sounds like you are going pure stock racing.  Good for you.  I've only been to 4 races, Frank 5, and we've never seen them check for vacuum.  If it doesn't sound like a roller cam, they don't pay much attention.  Also, there is a clause in their cam rule that they know some factory cams never could maintain 16" at 1200 and would be accepted if some paperwork was available to document the cam in use.  If you were running in the 10s and challenging their big dogs, they might give the car a second look.  If it's running in the middle of the pack, they tend to admire the car, not protest it.  It's a run off a qualifying time deal, not running off some national record. 

Talk to your favorite cam grinder, answer his questions about what your car is and what you want to do with it, and let him suggest the grind.  Chances are he will recommend something with smaller lobe separation angles, which will smooth the idle anyway.  He won't telll you wrong, he wants you to be happy with his product.  Good luck and have fun!

John 

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Paul,

    Mummert sells a replica "Blower Cam" which is the same as the 285 was. I think! I had Engle grind mine, they have Standard masters that come very close to the original timing, but more modern ramps and geometry. John's would be updated as well I'm sure. My motor will go to 6500 pretty easily with that grind. And the correct springs and tubular pushrods. I think Hoosier runs Low Riser valve springs on his car. John's got the tech part nailed, if you don't run 10's or 11's they pretty much don't worry. Too much cam won't work with full exhaust and the original intake anyhow.

 

  

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

I have one of the repro blower cams.  I have 15"hg at 750rpm.  The Isky RPM 300 is similar.

Repro F:   274 adv, 226 @.050, .290 or .295 lift - I always forget the lift for some reason.

RPM 300:  270 adv, 228 @.050, .299

The valve lash for the repro blower cam results in more valve lift than the RPM 300 at it's suggested lash.

Bird55 may be able to give us the vacuum reading on his engine.  He used the RPM 300:

  http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic1046-4-1.aspx?Highlight=dyno+results

Lawrenceville, GA

Thanks for the replies guys,

I have decided to just go the pure stock route with this car.  I was going to do a lot more, but I would proably just devalue an original numbers matching car.  However, I will have an eye out for something else to make a Y Block hot rod.  I would hope it would run 15's, but I realize it might not.  Whatever it does, I will be pleased with it.  Some of my thinking was, the car doesn't have posted heads and my Fordomatic would probably get along better with less HP.  I will add a Petronics conversion and their coil that looks like a stock coil.  A 4.57 Detroit locker would probably get it going fairly well too, I'll keep the 3.10 third member set aside in case I ever want to take a long trip.  Are there speedometer gears for Fordomatics with 4.11 or 4.57? ratios?  I rather doubt it.  I can use my Garmin Street Pilot GPS to see how fast I'm going.  Do you think the 4.57's would buy a lot more than 4.11's or 3.89's?  I will probably go with 225/70R/14 tires, or possibly 215/70R/14's.  Other decisions are what pistons, etc.  Hyperutectic or forged.  We have a good local engine builder who has built a lot of Y Blocks, and they run good.  I realize the rules are not strictly enforced, but I do wish they would allow Traction Masters.  I guess I could clamp the leaf springs.  With Fordomatic, it probably won't launch that hard anyway.

Paul J. - '57 E Code

Paul,

         It'll launch harder than you think. John Feistritzer will have a source for converters. I'd guess something around 2000 stall would be pretty close to start. Work on the exhaust, you're allowed 2 1/2" all the way back. Any non straight thru muffler is legal. Turbos or Flowmasters are good. Use some form of a locker or a well setup limited slip diff with your 4.56's. I built one with a locker for the drags, and another, open 3.25, for cruizen'

     John Feistritzer ran an E code 'Bird, some years back with a T-85, Told me it went low 14's!! I would just love to see that  

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Paul J; Just passing on additional info. I believe J. Mummert only sells one "new" performance Cam that he recommends with a Fordomatic. One of the other regulars on this site missed or ignored that fact and ordered a 270 degree cam, and isn't happy with it on the automatic, for street use. As Frank has alluded too, the Supercharger Cam will probably have you needing a higher stall Converter. Unfortunately, as far as I know, ( I could be corrected on this) nobody stocks them, so it may have to be custom made.            

Paul

Paul,



I'm the guy that wasn't happy with the idle on the 270S cam. Motor is a 312 + bored 40. Since I have added the "e" code manifold and 500 cfm carbs. Pushed the timing out, I will get a smooth idle at 700 rpm in gear. Manifold vacuum is about 14 inches.

Trans is a Stock Ford-O-Matic , has not overheated this summer. Tough on u-joints at engagement as the neutral idle is about 1300 rpm.



I like the cam it pulls hard from about 2000 to 5000. I have only taken it to 5200 once.

Don't want to hurt it!



Jim


  Jim Rowe Elkhorn, NE