If it is 12 V later model Ford gauges will fit right in the t Bird dash and you can then use the later model senders and the little voltage "regulator" like 60's and early 70's FoMoCo products. Same for '56 Trucks and pass cars.  

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

Thanks for that, I'll see if I can get my head around it.


miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Folks,

Reprise the following: http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic22135-3-1.aspx

It should get you going in the right direction.

Regards,   JLB

55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top

Miker (and others),

My only Internet connection is here, at work.  As such, I can only correspond here before work, at break-times, lunch, or after work (I never stay after!!!).

I did a synopsis of the operation on here several years back; it will take me a day or two to find my reference material  --  so, please be patient, and I will try to help.

It's a "neat" system; just very "different".

Regards,   JLB

55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top

JLB,



Your comment took me back several years, till when I got my temp gauge to work. After getting the manual back out, I remembered why I had such a hard time figuring that out. I couldn't find a lot of references on the web on how king seely worked (at least that I felt I understood). Could you run thru this in a little more detail, I'd like to understand it better. While I do have a "normal" and "too hot" position on my temp gauge, verified by an infrared thermometer, now I really don't understand why. Thanks

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Hmmmmm. I'll search around and see what I can learn. Will see what the manual says for tests. It is an original sender which is a 6V and we're running a 12V system. Half tempted to just replace as it had sat for 43 years . My best guess is it's the sender. Wonder if the local parts house would be able to get one or I'll have to hit Larry's or Mac's. FULL, gauge says a shade under half tank.

Red55Tbird,

You cannot judge the quality of either the sender or the guage by its resistance!

This is a King-Seely system which works very differently from any other system; it uses bi-metal sring contacts with a hot wire around the heat-sensitive spring.  It must be tested within a complete circuit  --  though, there are a couple of tests in the maintenance manual for both the sender, and the guage.  Search for a couple of very recent posts (last week) on this very subject for more specific information.

'54, '55, and '56 Ford products used this design for both the fuel and temperature guage systems; '54 and '55 were specifically 6-V, with '56 as a 12-v system.  Some folks have used their 6-v systems on 12-v conversions. I do not recommend this, as the systems usually will eventually "burn-out".

Regards,   JLB

55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top

Someone will probably post the ohm reading for the sender (which I don't know)' which lets you start at the sender. But the real important thing is, does it read empty when empty. My gauge goes way past full, but when it says empty, you'd better believe it. It's like our temp senders, once you know where they are, we can live with it. It wasn't that bad to change when I was 17, but at 60 it was a b*****. On my temp gauge, I was able to wire in a variable resistor, and then "set" the resistance so straight up was 180 degrees. Don't know what the calcs would be on the fuel, but if that helps after someone post the readings, send me a pm.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

So, seems we've got either a bum gauge or sender in The Bird. Tank filled, gauge shows barely half tank. You guys think this would be a sender issue or gauge? Hoping sender because the gauge sure doesn't look like too much fun to get to in order to replace