Just got my C2AE block back from the machine shop. Sonic tested, magged, Baked and Blasted, Aligned Honed, Bored, Decked, clearenced and balanced the rotating assembly. They coated the block inside and out with WD-40. So is a soap solution with a mild detergent like Dawn and a soft bristle brush good enough for cleaning or should I get more aggressive and use Brake Parts Cleaner on the exterior of the block (machinist recommended)?. I'll be using a POR-15 Engine Enamel for the top coat. I also have the POR-15 Metal Prep, but the block still needs to be oil and grease free before use.

Thanks,

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

since the crank is in it I wouldn't use soap and water. Brake cleaner is good and handy It is just Lacquer thinner in a spray can. In your instance clean it up as you put it together once you get the heads and other stuff closed up then you can continue to flood it with brake cleaner or buy a gal. of LT. I start dusting mine quickly with red oxide primer. I've never used the POR products but I've heard good things. But are they a good idea for an engine block with heat? "Duplicolor High heat" works for me-decent price and easy to touch up. Then I clear coat it. Or Bill Hirsch makes the exact color match if that's what you want.

OK, so I just read up on the POR products and I bet your good to go. Start showing us pics!

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Thanks for the ideas. The crank isn't in the block yet, but I think I will go the Brake Parts Cleaner route. Heads are already done and painted. I've used the Duplicolor Heat resistant (red) before with good results. This POR-15 is "guaranteed" not to burn off and you can brush it on without leaving brush marks (they say ) or shoot it. Figured I'd give it a try.

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

POR has there own cleaner "Marine Clean" worked good for me. Then the "Metal Prep".

Thanks Scott! I have some of the Marine Clean too. Did you use it straight up or dilute with water?

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

A little bit off subject but I read a disturbing article some time back about BrakeKleen. Be very, very careful when using it and the warning probably extends to Carb Cleaner as well. Apparently if these products are allowed to be exposed to high heat whilst welding or similar it is possible for the fumes given off to be converted to something akin to Phosgene gas. This is deadly and at the very least will cause major life threatening injury to your lungs.

Read the cans carefully and use only as directed.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

Seeing as how I mentioned the warning I went looking for the article. If you are interested here is the link.

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

I always use lacquer thinner. It dries fast and leaves no residue. You don't have to wipe after applying like some oil and grease removers such as Prep-sol. I use a rag or paper towel, discarding it when it starts to show dirt after the first time wiping it down.



I also go over the engine two or three times to make sure its really clean.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I have good luck with lacquer thinner or Acetone for the final wipe down before paint.


Lawrenceville, GA

Thanks Gys...I appreciate all the feedback. I'll take pictures as she comes together.

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID