Master Cylinder,

The mechanical FE fuel pump I mentioned earlier is just a pump off a 390 or 427. They fit y blocks, just bolt on and because they supply a larger engine are fine for Y block performance.  Standard is about 80gph, if you want to get serious they also come in 110gph or 140gph. Because they are mechanical for a carb no need for regulators or return lines. 

Your fuel filter is a copy of a Fram hpg1 which is a hotroders favorite. I'm using one. They are great and are rated at 80gph @ 0psi for flow and 200psi for pressure.

The safety relays are a good idea. Better safe than sorry.

cheers

Warren

  

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

Warren, Airtex makes a low oil pressure S/D switch. Cheap insurance. Thanks for the tip. Oil Pressure Safety Switch



Lost the picture of the filter in my other post, here's the link. Fuel Filter

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

We just installed that very pump on one of the Alex brothers cars at Columbus. Its a pulse pump and makes no noise. We were doing a quick fix for a rear mounted pump that failed. Tried a mechanical pump but it didn't pump. I don't think the eccentric was on the cam. I put this one on the front of the block and actually used a water pump bolt to hold it. Ran it to the tank line and the carb line. Vroom, started right up. I think I'll put one of these on MoonShadow. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Warren, That's all good stuff to consider. At present my RanchWagon has a fuel pump inertia switch that came off a '89 TBird that will shut off the fuel pump incase of an accident. The oil pressure and Tach S/D sounds like something to look into.



Or I may go with the FE mechanical pump. Do you know if it can be deadheaded. That's one of the reasons I was looking at the Airtex pump because it shuts off when deadheaded so I don't need a return line.



Thanks for all the advice.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Mastercylinder,

There is some really good information on the net regarding electric fuel pumps and fuel systems. From my basic understanding. A car that can obtain 1 g of acceleration needs 6-8 psi to provide fuel at frame rail next to the engine. another 1psi to get it to the carb. This is why fuel regulators are used. You can use two pumps in line.

Some pumps do not like to deadhead (run against a stop at a regulator or needle and seat) these pumps require a return line as they require fuel flow to cool them.  

For the reason Billy pointed out never install an electric fuel pump without installing a tachometric or oil pressure relay. That way the fuel pump stops when the engine stops. I'd hate to think that anyone's ride or occupants would burn up as the result of a minor accident. Also it needs to be activated via the ignition switch, then anyone who attends a minor accident can turn off the car and fuel pump by using the ignition. No silly tricks, it's just dumb.

Really a good fuel system can enhance the performance of any car that is built for more that just getting groceries. Just do it safely. A FE mechanical pump starts sounding really good considering things. Cheap as a cheap fuel pump, no way. A tachometric relay will cost you $80-$100. Return lines a regulator soon mounts up. or replacement fuel pumps that burn out as a result of deadheading. 

Do it safe.

Warren

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

Thanks for the feedback guys everyone. And the mounting suggestions.







Y-Block Billy. Good points. Plastic Filter No Bueno. This particular pump is low pressure ~2.5-5psig). It also comes with a small metal filter that mounts before the pump. I also have another metal canister type filter that is mounted at the tank that has a changeable element which is kind of neat because I can see what kind is junk I'm collecting.



Like this;



"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Just a word of caution when using electric high pressure fuel pumps, a guy at the local circle track had a high pressure pump with a cheap plastic inline filter after it, the filter burst and the pump filled his cockpit with gas before he could get out of the car it caught fire on the exhaust and he was burned pretty bad on the hands because he left his gloves in another car.

He probably should have had the filter before the pump anyway but avoid the cheap plastic filters for safety reasons.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

I'm using one on my '55 bird. I only use it to prime the float bowls after the car has been sitting a while. I use a momentary switch on the dash, 12V conversion, 4160 carb. No problems so far, but the car isn't roadworthy yet. I plumbed the pump & filter into the stock fuel hard line, outside the frame rail just in front of the rear spring mount. It seems to draw from the tank just fine.

I have been using the exact same pump. The first one I installed was to far forward. These pumps like to push not pull. I mounted the second one as far back as I could and no problems for 2 yrs now.

Buz Mills

Dallas, TX

Hi Ron, Yes I have a regulator set a 3.5 psig but I need to get a new pump and was wondering if anyone has used an Airtex inline pump. heard some good thing about them on the Ford Barn and just checking here.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL