Hmmmm... Paul makes a good point. Although Ford went to a heavier gauge steel during the '56 model year on the 'Bird frame, and continued with the same through '57, frame rot can be an issue on the '7s.



The place I've seen the rust problem on all three years is the area adjacent to the front rear spring hanger. In my area, '55 and early '56 are the worst for this problem.



Also, Slumlord's suggestion is an excellent one. Try to connect with someone through CTCI in your area who is 'Bird knowledgeable. Having someone who really knows the particular vehicle you're considering buying can save you suffering unexpected surprises or paying more than you should for what you're getting. Unfortunately, there are 'Bird owners and there are 'Bird owners. -Not all of them work or have worked on their cars. Ask questions of whoever you get connected with as to their 'familiarity' level or 'experience' level. Some may know authenticity, but not the body mechanics aspect.



Hope this helps.


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

[quote][b]NoShortcuts (9/7/2012)

tin worm above the front fender air ducts by the blower motor



Even my low mileage/dry southwest car had rust there, appearing in the door jamb recess by the windshield frame. Left rocker panel also too far gone to save in the long run.



P.S. On top of being welded together, all the body section joints are leaded in. A proper resto (no bondo) requires someone good with lead, largely a lost art.


6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I would also recomend that you find out if there is a local chapter of the CTCI in your area. There members would more than likely to help you with information. Been a member of the St. Louis chapter since the '70's and haven't been to a meeting in 30 years but still have friends there and call for information and assistance from time to time.

A good forum is on Yahoo Groups 'Classic Birds' very active and lots of help.



Also check the frame for rust damage - especially in the back.



Don't worry if the rear main leaks - they all do (like any other Y Block) and the fix is relatively easy.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Google 'Classic Thunderbird Club International' for information. Non-Profit organization is dedicated solely to the '55 - '57 'Birds and is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year! International convention was held August 21 - 25 in Memphis TN this year. Membership fee is $35.00 per year



Bi-monthly magazine, published membership roster (if you want to be included), locally sanctioned clubs throughout the U.S. and some overseas as well. U.S. is divided into 6 geographic regions. Regional conventions are held in the year between the holding of the international convention. Organization publishes a restoration manual of over 400 pages that is INVALUABLE. -Mine is on loan to a friend at the moment or I'd give you the exact page count!



Good organization...source of much helpful 'Bird specific info.


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

The tbird site would be : http://www.ctci.org/

OR

Data plate Decoder



And yes as said before most people don't realize this car has a one-piece body.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Everything that's been said is right-on. Yes, anything can be brought back, but bringing a rusty '55-'57 'Bird back is serious work IF it is done so that it is structurally sound. Inner front fenders are tied to the door posts and the front fenders, door posts are tied to the outer fender as well as the inner and outer rocker panels. Outer rocker panels are tied to the floor pan and inner rocker panels, and inner rockers are tied to the floor braces that are tied to the floor pan. There are too many 'restored' 'Birds here in the Northeast that look good, but are 'cosmetic only' beauties.



All of this body metal stuff may sound routine for a '50s Ford, but ALL the previously mentioned component parts are spot welded together, making something like removal of a front fender or inner front fender quite a different proposition than using wrenches and sockets.



In addition to what has been mentioned, be alert for repaired tin worm above the front fender air ducts by the blower motor on the passenger side and in corresponding location on the driver's side. Also, open the doors and lift on the door to test the door post integrity at the hinges. -The door shouldn't flex without the rest of the body moving when you lift up. Door post rust was a big problem on the '55s because there was no metal deflector between the front wheel and the door post.



Hope this helps!


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

Thank you everyone.

What is the T-Bird site? Forum?

Thanks

Jim

agree with others, Also turn the front wheels lock to lock and check under the fenders for the duct work. these areas hold alot of road debris, sand etc and water and get rusty and expensive fast. Footwells and floorpans are commonly rusted from both the top and bottom depending on the geographic climate.

Check to see if it has both tops, always a bonus. Learn how {from Tbird site) how to check and read the vin plate to see what the car was issued with. I wouldn't be afraid of any of the stuff mentioned just be ready to pay to fix it. I see lots of unfinished Project birds for sale!

If you shoot photos some on here can help you identify what you are looking at.

Have fun, the hunt is on!

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

All slumlord says is correct. I'm from the Seattle area, and since almost all 'birds leak at the front of the doors, our floors rust from the inside. Plus the wet feet on the drivers side. Pull the rugs back, and check there. Wiggle the gas pedal, mine was so rusty, it pulled free. But they looked fine underneath.



Don't know about 57's, but 55's here tend to rust in the right rear quarter panel, as the spare prevents cleaning. A mouse nest is common. I'd check the spare tire well in a 57, much the same reason.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ