Andrew:

When you get your new radiator in, if you don't loose coolant when the gauge reads hot, it is probably not hurting anything.  '56 gauges are not known to be very accurate, and vary from car to car.  Good luck.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

That's good to know!  Any suggestions on a more accurate guage that I could hide somewhere (maybe under the dash) that is simple to install?

Would a new guage be able to use the sensor unit in the block or does it require installing a new sensor?

Andrew 56-Vicky

Andy,

don't know if you have followed my old post about installing one of those new 4 core radiators in my 55, but please be careful and check and recheck the clearance before you put it in. I noticed my new radiator was just too deep and I had to do some judicious "customizing" to get the install right - it looks and works fine, but that was after I had the spacer machined and I ground down my water pump shaft. Hopefully you won't have any trouble and it will be a simple swap.

Dan

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Daniel,

Yeah, I saw your post when I started this whole thing.  I'll be sure to check it all out BEFORE starting the engine.

Thanks again for the heads up!

Andrew 56-Vicky

I installed a 4 row in my 56 sunliner with no problems, my 56 had had the small spacer behind the fan and that may be why it went in with a perfect fit.

-Gary Burnette-

Andy,

        Re the gage question, two or three thoughts, A new under dash gage will come with it's own sender. I prefer electrics, they're simple to install and considerably more accurate than the original 51 year old stocker. you will have to find a place to install the sender. Close to the thermostat will be the hottest part of the system 2) there are a number of instrument shops that can re-build and re-calabrate the original gage. 3) You can check it youself with the new aftermarket gage, and see if it needs to be re-adjusted. Most likely, as John Said, it's wrong.   

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Frank,



When you say that the highest temperature will be closest to the thermostat, how much of a difference can this make? My sending unit is sitting behind the intake on the top of the block. I was concerned I was running too cool @ 165-170(good gauge) however could I really be running about right and have my sending unit too far away from the highest point?




My name is Greg and I am addicted to Y's.

Greg, Not much from the front to the back. I think your present sender is located on the back of the right hand head now. Should be another plugged hole in the crossover at the front of the intake, you could use that.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

I don't think there is a "downside" to putting your temp sensor at the same spot the factory did (driverside rear). If your engine is happy with the operating temperature as it is right now - if it is stable and you have tuned the induction system for it - there shouldn't be an issue (unless you get cold feet in the winter) with the temp you've got.

Seems to me a classic way to check the system capacity is to remove the thermostat (or put in a washer with a thermostat poppet sized hole) - then run the system in the hottest conditions. Once the system volume has reached stability (thermal expansion stops running excess water out of the radiator cap bypass) and if you aren't overpressuring the standard cap with steam -  you've basically proved the system is adequate to cool the engine. If it overheats with no thermostat restriction, the pump capacity is too small or the radiator is too small or stuffed or there isn't enough fan - or maybe your engine is building a non-typical amount of heat (like way retarded timing while idling in a parade or traffic). Something will have to be improved or fixed.

Assuming stability, a check of water temp (at the thermostat housing) versus outdooor ambient will then tell you what the system "rise" is with the equipment you've got. You can then install a thermostat to raise the temperature up to where you want it. 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Andrew;



In case you still have the '56 double diaphragm Loadomatic distributor, I met a guy last weekend with a '56 Bird who traced his severe overheating problem to the retarded timing that resulted when that system malfunctioned. I also heard those parts are VERY hard to find.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA