I was able to retrieve the bent pushrod that landed in the valley with a flexible magnetic tool. I was surprised to see how available the new pushrods are so I decided to replace all 16 with new ones rather than replace the two bent ones piecemeal. This is a low mileage rebuilt 292 engine which had been sitting for 7-8 years before I got it running. The valve train is clean and free of any grease buildup and the oil is clean. I can only assume that a couple of valves must have momentarily stuck as none are stuck now. I have heard that pouring some automatic transmission fluid down the carburetor with the engine running can free up sticky valves. Is this a good idea or is there a better way? How much fluid should I use if I choose that method? Thanks, Alan

Deja vu... this is an old remedy...



It was recommended to me for freeing up piston rings. It worked! Should serve to lubricate valve stems...



Treatment was to add the trans fluid (Dexron) to the gas tank. Yes, you'll get some smoke out the tailpipe...



Can't remember dosage. 1/2 quart of trans fluid to a tank of gas?



Can't do this with catalytic converter or oxygen sensor cars today!




NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

A friend of mine who had a farm in Montana and worked on oil rigs of the Oz coast was concerned about the quality of US fuels 20 years ago and he started using ATF in his fuel as his cars and trucks were sitting for long periods whilst he was overseas. He swore by it.

The quantity of oil he used per tank was 6 oz. he claimed it worked a treat. Any of the proprietary fuel additives,STP, Nulon, Wynns, or upper cylinder lubricants, etc., which clean fuel systems will do the same thing but cost about four times as much.

I hope this gives you some ideas.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

I might have gone off topic with my previous post. An old time mechanic friend of mine used to squirt engine oil down the carby while it was running shortly after first starting a rebuilt engine. His rationale was to create an oil/carbon build up at the the top of the bores where the rings don't reach to help the rings seal and to ensure oil in the rings. The engine will try to stall when the oil hits the plugs so keep the engine revving as you squirt shots of oil in. You will soon see how much oil you can use.

If your engine has sat for the period of time you are suggesting it should certainly be treated as a new engine and primed by either pressurising the oil system or remove the distributor and with a 1/4" socket, a 6" x 1/4" socket extension fitted to a variable speed drill drive the oil pump to make sure you are getting oil everywhere.

You will need to run the drill in reverse.

This engine will be "as dry as a dead dingo's donger"after sitting for so long.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

Howdy,



Since you'll have all the push rods out,



I think that instead of pouring hydraulic fluid in the engine and burning it (causing fouled plugs and deposits in the combustion chambers) I would rather just lube each valve with some regular oil (like 5w30 etc). I suppose you could even use ATF if you must.



Push the valve stem seals up with a small screwdriver and squirt the oil on the stems. Then push down on each valve a few times to ensure it's free.



Cheers,





Rick


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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

Hello, noob to this forum chiming in with my first post. It's not about a Y-block but it can happen to practically any engine. I've had this happen from using old fuel that was who-knows-how-old. I ended up with a few stuck valves in an old flattie after it sat from running the old fuel. Some of the intake valves got gummed up and stuck. I pulled the head and I squirted WD-40 down the stems on the stuck valves and tapped them down. I sprayed them a few times more after spinning the engine. I put it back together and it ran fine, never happening again.

This modern fuel does bad things when it goes old.

I have a Y-block story about the same issue to share another time.

~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

I accidentally fell into this method when the vac modulator on my AT malfunctioned and pulled the ATF into the manifold. There might be a way to rig a vac line into the manifold into an amount of ATF. Just a thought that might be worth a try rather than just adding it to the gas. It did smoke enough to kill every mosquito in my neighborhood. For a second I thought I blew a head gasket. Glad it was a $12 vac modulator.

Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC