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Advice?

Posted By DANIEL TINDER 13 Years Ago
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DANIEL TINDER
Posted 13 Years Ago
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I have a unusual situation where a Mummert-built stroker shortblock with massaged "G" heads/ARP bolts/Best headgaskets/sits in my basement covered in plastic. I started the project originally (two years ago) because diminishing oil pressure and leaky orig. steel headgaskets warned that the handwriting was likely on the wall re: the 100K mi.+ original 55 292.

But, the addition of "Stop-Leak, propylene coolant, and a lot of Lucas oil viscosity expander have brought the orig. motor back to life. Since I installed tubular pushrods, Pony-built teapot, high ratio rockers, and re-calibrated the Loadomatic with a mechanical advance limiter (using a SUN machine), the headgaskets have quit leaking, and the original motor runs like frigging gangbusters (with no coolant pressure/modified cap to prevent leaking). I know eventually the coolant system will sludge-up, but I have no worries since there is a new block & alum. radiator waiting in the wings. Every time I get to thinking it might be time to swap in the new motor, I take the car for a spin and run the piss out of the orig. mill. IT RUNS LIKE A FRIGGING SCALDED CAT! How can I justify pulling an engine that runs this good? If it wasn't for the imbalance vibrations, I wouldn't even consider it (any rpm below 4000 causes the steering wheel to shake big-time). Still, the new motor will require premium fuel (9.5:1 CR), and a lot of installation & break-in grief (the heart attack I had a couple years back sort of took the wind out of my "engine swap" sails, so to speak).

So, should I run the original motor until it breaks?" Being an original factory assembled Ford Y-Block, it might run for another 10 years at this rate. THE HARDER I PUSH IT, THE MORE IT WANTS TO RUN! The car will do (speedo calibrated) 125mph easy (orig. drum brakes keep those tests to a minimum though).



So, if I keep the built shortblock properly encased in plastic, what's the harm?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA



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