I have a '62 Bird with the original M-code 390. I need some advice before I lose my mind with this. I had some lifter noise, especially after the oil warmed up. It has the original non-adjustable rocker arms and shaft.



I checked valve lash on every cylinder and they were all within the Ford spec. (.078-.218). I checked valve spring height and all were within spec. Using a dial indicator, I checked for cam lobe wear and once again, it was within the wear limit. I had to change two pushrods that were slightly bent. They were actually within the Ford spec. limit but to me they should be perfect, so I changed them all using the stock height for this engine...9.59".



Using a dial indicator, I noticed that four or five lifters were bleeding off way too fast..it only took seconds for them to collapse with the respective valve in the "open" position. What I like to do is, using a dial indicator in the top of the valve spring to ensure the valve is fully compressed or open. The "bad" cylinders would compress, then as the lifter collapsed, ride right up. So, I changed the lifters.



After reassembly, all my valve lash specs were .080-.100, depending on the valve. I start the engine and after warm up, notice there's still a ticking noise on the No.1 and No. 7 cylinders. Using a hose as a stethoscope, I narrow it down to the No. 1 exhaust and No. 7 intake. I took off the rocker shafts, clean up the faces that hit the valve, carefully smooth the wear marks on the top of the valve stems, reinstall them and still a ticking sound. I decide, what the heck, swap around the rocker shafts..because it had new pushrods and the rockers were smoothed where they hit the valves, so mating wear patterns wasn't important. I figured if the rocker shaft or rockers were bad, it would just "move" the problem to another cylinder by switching them around.



I start the engine, warm it up and it's much quieter. I think I have it licked. Today, I install the valve covers, give a once over tightening of the exhaust manifolds, start the car, let it warm up...and there's the damn ticking noise again. And it's noticeable and I felt like I accomplished nothing. The engine runs excellent, the new lifters aren't bleeding off like the old ones, so that's good. But I am losing my mind with this damn valve noise. ANY help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! HELP!

1962 M-code Thunderbird 390cid w. Three 2-BBL Induction

Worn valve guides?

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

have you had a vacuum gauge hooked up to see if there is any movement there.. might help pin point your prob?



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Greetings to all: I once had a similar "ticking" sound much like a slightly collapsed lifter on my 68 390. After going over everything on top with a stethoscope, I kept returning to the vicinity of number 5 cylinder. It was the fuel pump. Was a broken/missing spring which keeps the fuel pump arm in constatn contact with the eccentric. Hope this helps and good luck.

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

Just a couple suggestions. Are the oil holes on the rocker shafts pointing down? There is a notch at the end of each shaft to reference it. Also FE's are prone to exhaust leaks between the manifold and the cylinder head. I would check carefully with a stethoscope or hose around both exhaust manifolds.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

Thank you for the replies. I have checked the exhaust manifolds with a stethoscope and tightened them just for good measure, but no leaks were found. The problem seems to point to the No.1 cylinder mostly. The fuel pump idea is something I didn't think of, I'll check that. Maybe it is a worn valve guide, I'm not sure. I was careful to make sure the oil holes in the shafts are facing down. I even spun the oil pump with a drill to be certain the oil holes to the lifters were clear and pre-lube the engine, lifters and shafts before starting it.



Don't you hate when this stuff happens? You think your doing everything right and you accomplish nothing.

1962 M-code Thunderbird 390cid w. Three 2-BBL Induction

Dampers within the valve springs?  If so, then check for any shiny wear areas on one side where the outer springs are rubbing hard on the damper springs.  If you find this, then you could possibly have some ‘non-square’ valve springs which are leaning into the damper springs.  Extended running with non-square valve springs will eventually wear out those particular valve guides.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I second this. We ran into this alot back in the late 60's. FE's, Small blocks it didnt matter.

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

That's a great suggestion..valve springs. I didn't think of that. I'll charge the cylinder with the air compressor tomorrow and pull them off the valves to look them over. Thanks again for the help.

1962 M-code Thunderbird 390cid w. Three 2-BBL Induction