The piece that screws into the exhaust manifold is a sealed pocket.All it does is heat up and the hot air travels through the tube to heat the choke coil.Ford used a similar system as a factory setup through most of the 1960's early 70's.

  

I ordered one of the kits and I will let you know when I receive it. I wondered the same thing myself. Alan

Curious: Does the add-on or OEM choke (repair) kit conduct actual exhaust gasses to the choke spring, or merely heat the air in the tube?



While I would be loath to add to my electrical load (6V Gen/OD) with an electric choke, if actual exhaust ever gets to the choke spring, it likely wouldn't last long.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Outside of what others might say about Edelbrock (and of course with good reason about how Vic Jr has been public about his disregard of the Y block), the last B intake I put together on a 292 (bored to 301) Y block, I tried a 500cfm Edelbrock with the manual choke. Out of the box almost 0 tuning was needed and it has performed well for the street. I personally like a manual choke and rarely is it needed for most that live in a milder climate/drive our cars only in decent weather.

I recently got a hold of a 390cfm Holley 4 barrel from "Cactus" here on this forum in a little parts swap we did together and I will be installing that on a 272 pretty soon. I've only heard good things as well.

The difference would probably be that Edelbrock carbs tend to be a little bit cheaper when purchased new, and the Holley carbs are a bit more. However, I believe that the Holley's are more common and there is more ability to "tune"... somebody else can chime in now, lol. Some of us on the forum stick to our carbs like we stick to oil recommendations. It can start a heated debate!

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Great advice...very helpful. Thanks again

It would be one inlet fitting only.There is a kit you can buy on Ebay that fits the stove into the exhaust manifold and run one pipe up to the choke.Not common knowledge but Ford provided a "service repair kit" even back in 56 that did away with the original choke pipe setup through the intake manifold and put the choke stove in the exhaust manifold with one pipe up to the choke.If you block off the heat crossover in the intake be sure to remove the heatriser valve in the exhaust manifold if you still have it.If you look at Ebay item # 150966749827 thats a kit to replace the choke tubes you have now.Drill a hoole in the exhaust manifold and the fitting is sealed inside and self taps into the manifold.Bend the pipe and use the fabric cover supplied and you are all set.I have seen them specifically for Ford but that kit will work just as well.

  

Will do on the phenolic spacer an the blockoff plates for the heat riser. Yes, this carb will work out fine as my engine is a 1961 292 fitted with the original distributor. Question...does this carb use both the choke stove tubes, i.e. the inlet and outlet just like the original or does it have one one fitting at the base of the choke? I see only one choke heat tube fitting in the pictures of it. Thanks, Alan

That model is hot air choke only.Very similar to the original 1957 carb.

  

Couldn't tell for sure from the eBay page/photo: Does that come with an included electric choke at that price?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Thats a good choice.You will be much happier with that than a rebuilt for not a lot more money.You might want to consider adding a 1/2 inch phenolic spacer under the carb.Keeps it cooler  as it creates a non heat conducting separation from the intake.Also you might consider blocking the heat crossover passage in the intake when you install it.Same reason-helps cut down  heat to the carb.You are aware you will need the 57-up distributor to go with that carb?