50 to 60 ft/lbs according to Eickman, theres also a good paragraph on checking out a rotor style pump.

stuey

UK

Thanks guys! I appreciate all the help!

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

As far as the oil filter adapter plate, if you can't get it to stop consider getting one from Mac's. I found that theirs is a thicker plate should should prevent a leak. In addition, they have a extra thick gasket that goes under the plate - unfortunately is is not part of the kit and must be bought separately.

I had the same problem, had one of Mac's on hand and it solved my leakage problem.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

sounds good!

I know what it's like. Sometimes you chase one problem and then another pops up. Hang in there.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Well I think that problem is solved Filled the motor with oil again and started spining the pump. This time I saw small bubbles and oil coming from between the end plate and the pump body. I was at the low end of the torque spec for the oil pump end plate. The book says 12-15 ft, lbs. I re-torqued them again to 15 ft.lbs and no more leaks there. Continued priming and I did get a good flow out of the (pressurized) overflow tubes, but couldn't see any oil coming out from under the rockers and onto the baffle plates, but it's got to be there. I could smell my drill motor starting to burn up so I quit. Found another oil leak on the spin-on fiter adapter plate. Anyone have a torque spec for that big nut? I can't remember what it is. Anyway, I'm happy I don't have any major block or pump issues

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Daniel;

Yes, I have the center groove cam bearing, in fact I specifically bought the kind that had a groove on both the ID and OD of the bearing. I know exactly what you are saying about the "O" ring thickness and I thought that was odd too. It's too bad if I can't use this pump because it's my understanding that they provide a more consistant flow than the gear type pumps. That's why I spent the time and money to rebuild it.

I suppose I could keep spinning the pump to see if I get oil to the rockers, But I just drained the 4 qts of break-in oil in anticipation of pulling the pump. Maybe I'll go and dump it back in.

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Figure out where it is coming from first. Get everything as clean and dry as you can, turn it again and find the source.


Lawrenceville, GA

Sounds like you may have oil pushing out between the flat plate and the O ring seal to the body of the pump. The last time I rebuilt one of the gerotor pumps I noticed that the new O ring was not quite as thick as the old one. When I reassembled everything, I could tell that the flat plate had to be completely FLAT with no warpage to seal with that O ring. There really didn't seem to be any room for tolerance. The last unit I did worked out well with no leaks... but I feel that it was pretty close.

Can you tell how much oil is pushing out? If you don't have a major leak and you think you could stand to lose a little bit of oil, it may be worth it to keep priming. That way you could tell if you get oil to the rockers and know that it is not blocked up anywhere making oil push out at the weakest point in the whole works. You have a center groove cam right?

Let us know how it turns out for you.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Why is it that when you think your getting close to the end of a motor build something goes wrong?

I tried to prime the oil pump today to make sure I had oil to the rockers and noticed I was pushing oil out, I think between the block and the pump. It could be between the end cover and the pump body too. It's hard to tell as I'm standing on the opposit side of the block using the drill motor. This is a rebuilt (by me) rotor style pump and there really isn't much to them. When I rebuilt the pump, I noticed there was light scoring on the inside of the flat cover so I used some fine emery on a flat steel plate and got the scoring out. I know the pump is working because I forgot to plug the oil galley hole behind the oil filter and oil came squirting out. I plugged that hole and retorqued the pump bolts and tried again, but it still pushed oil out. I was able to get to the plug on the pressure relief valve, so I removed that and shecked the plunger and spring and everything was moving freely. Put it back together and still was pushing out oil. I didn't continue to spin the pump to see if oil was getting to the rockers and I know from past experience that can take a couple of minutes. So my first question is, even if the oil passages to the heads are plugged due to a bad cleaning job by the machine shop, that wouldn't cause oil to push out from the pump body would it? Maybe I should just get a new oil pump and try again

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID