The Fordomatic on my '57 has leaked ever since I got it running. The leak drips from the lowest point on the bellhousing steadily as long as the engine is running, but it doesn't leak when the engine's off. On a recent drive I started feeling shift problems and sure enough the dipstick was dry and there was a huge puddle under the car. Clearly, the leak has escalated to a new level, with fluid streaming rather than dripping from the lowest point of the bellhousing with the engine running.

I have just finished removing the transmission only from the car (TC and housing still bolted up). The front pump seal, which I assumed to be the guilty party, looks ok; the surface it seals against is smooth and not worn; neither the TC nor the front pump gasket announce themselves plainly to be the culprit.

I still think the front pump/TC seal is the leak point, but I can't be certain that the TC itself or front pump to case gasket isn't guilty since I can't watch it leak while running. Something tells me that the converter is rarely a leak point, but that something could be wishful thinking.

What do you think is the probable cause, and what would you do in this situation? A full rebuild is not an option. I just want to stop leaking trans fluid everywhere.

Thanks!

1954 Crestline Victoria 312 4-bbl, 3-speed overdrive

Check this site out http://www.autotran.us/fmkits1.html

While you have the trans out pull the converter to see if its leaking. (I think there are two o-rings?) Buy a seal kit and replace the seals on the transmission. Macs has the Ford-o-matic transmission manual for 14 bucks, might be worth a look.

Greg

If the torque converter is original, it has a 2 piece shell bolted together by a row of bolts at the front. Between the halves is a seal ring. It has a square cross section rather than a round O ring. Those can leak. If the pump drive hub is a bolt in type, it also has a square cross section seal. Also, replace the front pump bushing, when it wears it allows the converter snout to drop and lose its seal, even if it is smooth and the seal looks good. Be very careful when you mate the converter and transmission that the drive lugs on the snout engage the pump properly or you will destroy the pump.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I went ahead and removed the bellhousing and converter, but since everything in there has a light film of transmission oil on it and it collects at the lowest points, I still am uncertain where the leak is coming from. My assumption about converter leakage was based on the modern welded units, so there's no guarantee my converter isn't leaking.

So, I decided to replace all the potentially leaky seals and gaskets. I am also taking your advice, Hoosier, and replacing the front pump body bushing. can that be gently tapped out and in with a punch and hammer, or is there a better way?

Also, do ya'll know anything about the replacement front pump to converter seal being thicker than the original? The manual says the seal is 1/2 inch thick, which my new one is, but the original is 3/8" thick.

1954 Crestline Victoria 312 4-bbl, 3-speed overdrive

With the pump apart, it is easy to knock the old bushing out, and drive the new one in with a piece of flat metal. The seal thickness won't matter.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Just wanted to follow up and say that I got the trans ready for startup today and after 15+ minutes of running there was no sign of leakage at all. Whew!

I can't be certain but I suspect now that the converter seal was the major leaker. The old seal was pretty hard and had of course completely lost its original square profile. Regardless, I'm glad I replaced all the seals, and that bushing, as it should be leak free for many many more miles to come. Thanks for your help as ever!

1954 Crestline Victoria 312 4-bbl, 3-speed overdrive