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charliemccraney
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It's not "too much." However, it is not a drop in replacement since it is for a Ford not a Lincoln. You will have to swap the distributor gear from the Lincoln distributor to the 8383.
Lawrenceville, GA
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martyk98
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Hey Rono- I was thinking of putting an 8383 on my almost stock 368 Lincoln engine. Is this too much distributor for a stock application?
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Rono
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Thanks John. There are so many variables in getting this right. It may be on the dyno for a long time. Rono
Ron Lane, Meridian, ID
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John Mummert
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You have to be careful using the lightest spring combos with the 8383. We had a problem when I used light springs and the engine would never come back to idle at the same speed. The advance curve was starting too soon so at 800 RPM it had more advance than at 650 RPM. The distributor was Increasing the advance which increased the idle speed. It was very aggravating until I finally put a timing light on the engine and realized why the idle varied so much. Stiffer springs got rid of the problem
http://ford-y-block.com 20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico 
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pegleg
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you're welcome Ron, if I said anything wrong Hoosier would have jumped on me, so I must be close!!
Frank/RebopBristol, In ( by Elkhart)  
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Rono
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Thanks Frank; Looks like the way I have the distributor set-up now I'm all in at 3,000 RPM. If I keep the light silver and light blue spring and change to the blue bushing, I'll be all in at 2,500 RPM. Rono
Ron Lane, Meridian, ID
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pegleg
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Don't worry about the vacuum now, it does not work at all under boost. The advance curve can be quick because you won't see any boost until 2500-3000 anyhow. You will be able to run quite a bit of advance up to that point becaause what you'll have until the boost comes on is a low compression, small engine, that needs a lot bof advance. I have mine all in by about 2500.
Frank/RebopBristol, In ( by Elkhart)  
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Rono
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Okay, so if I don't run any vacuume advance, is 38 degrees total advance too much in your opinion? I think I will switch back to the blue bushing as Ted suggested. I re-read the MSD instructions about removal of the vacuume canister and I agree with you that removing it would definately clean up the appearance and provide more room. But replacing with the lockout piece sounds a bit tricky and can create problems. It may or may not need to be shimmed. I'll decide one way or another sooner or later. Rono
Ron Lane, Meridian, ID
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marvh
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That plastic piece replaces the vacuum can as best I can see. The same result can likely be replicated by just leaving the vacuum hose off. The other advantage to removing the vacuum can and using the locking piece is it cleans up the distributor if space is tight.
If you do not hook up the vacuum hose the total advance will be reduced by about 16 deg. marv
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Rono
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Marv; I read the MSD instructions on locking out the vacuume advance and to be honest, I don't know the difference between locking out and not connecting a vacuume line to the canister. Either way, I was not planning on running any vacuume advance on this distributor. MSD does provide a plastic wedge for locking out the vacuume advance. I'm not sure if it replaces the entire canister assembly or mounts under the arm from the canister. I've read the other from posts back in 2011 and I'm using 471 heads with forged flat top pistons (John's 331 cu.in. stroker kit with the domes milled off) and I also relieved the block. I'm thinking that my compression should be less than 9:1, but I'm not exactly sure yet. So, I'm just trying to figure a good starting point for the bushing and spring combination. Rono
Ron Lane, Meridian, ID
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