The previous owner of my 292 had a number of components powder coated, ie. valve covers, intake manifold and the timing cover. In the accompanying photos you can see that the TC was coated both inside and out. I am wondering if this was a good idea. My limited experience with powder coating tells me that if it ever starts to come off it will be in pieces (perhaps even large ones) rather than wearing away or dissolving. Chunks of powder in the cooling passages or in the oil pan would not be good. So how to remove it? I have already done the valve covers and that was very difficult. I eventually used a sand blaster which was very slow, (about 1 hour which is expensive - $60.00 per hour) and tedious. It also got me into trouble at the U-Blaster when I filled his unit with sheets of powder coating. I can only imagine that removing powder coating from a cast object would be even more difficult, perhaps exceeding the value of the cover. Your advice is appreciated.

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia

Mark,

I don't like powder coating and have been warned off using it by proffessionals. I like you took a fairing support braket (motorcycle) to a sand blaster he looked at it and handed it straight back, sorry I can't do this. I removed it sucessfully with a flame then had it sand blasted. I would suggest you do it outside and if you have a lot of it, do it in batches over days/weeks.

I don't like the idea of breathing the stuff .

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

Thanks Grizzly. Are you suggesting that I burn it off with say a butane torch? I just have the inside of this timing cover to deal with. I'm not using the intake that came with the motor and I have already done the valve covers.

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia

Mark

Yes, a butane torch or whatever you have. Turn it to carbon and sand blasting should get the rest.

Depending on how porous the casting is there may be some residual. If it were cast Aluminium it would wreck it for anything but painted finished.

Regards

Warren

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

The powder coat will sand or blast off just takes a little time. Eastwood also sells a chemical (probably something we could buy localy if we knew what it was) that removes it. If the job was prepped well I would think it would be ok but I can't help but wonder why he did the insides. I always mask the engine sides. I do some powder coating at home and havn't seen any real problems when the preperation was done correctly. Includes gassing out aluminum parts and I also do the same for engine parts that have been exposed to oil or grease. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I expect the whole thing was done because he didnt want to take the time to mask off the inside. I actually removed the powder coat from the gasket surfaces with a razor blade. He also did the entire harmonic damper. I cleaned off the area where the seal goes with a razor as well. You could see that the seal didn't like running on the powder coat. I have been kindly offered another cover from one of our members for the cost of shipping so I will accept that. The powder coated one can be wall art.

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia

Powder coat requires temps up to 450 degrees I don't think I would trust a damper that had been heated that much. The Damper Doctor told me he powder coats his prior to assembly. I think I would have that damper rebuilt or just replace it. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Thanks, Chuck, I have another damper.

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia

Brake cleaner or acetone, or mek will take paint off in no time. Maybe they will work as well on powder coat.


Lawrenceville, GA

I don't disagree with changing the part and certainly a low cost replacement makes it a no brainer for peace of mind, but if the stuff is that difficult to remove (ie torching, heavy duty blasting) why would it disintegrate and contaminate under normal service? Just askin'

Ted, Redding, CA