Everything that gekko13 told you was spot on. I would like to add a comment. Use a spray gasket remover on the old gaskets and be careful not to nick the sealing surfaces. Buy the BLUE Moronso reusable gaskets and the nylon washers for the bolts that attach the float bowls to the carb body. Buy a QUALITY KIT it saves you money. NAPA is good. Pete

I didn't get into it but you say it's pretty old...The 650 on my racing GMC 6 is also very old and many modifications were done to it for more CFM etc:. My Carb guy, Shawn Murphy, hates the non-USA made ones. The newer they are the worse they are to him. I've replaced bowl gaskets and plate gaskets 100's of times and they can be tricky so take your time...Good Luck

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

brokengate, a bowl gasket and/or metering block gasket is a good start. Check the bowl screw gaskets and all the sealing surfaces for flatness. Do you know the trick to reinstalling the transfer tube? There is an o-ring on each end that seals it. Place the o-ring on the tip of the tube and just push the tube in all the way. The ring will roll with the tube and you're good. I've seen those forced in and that usually just nicks the o-ring and then it leaks. Install the primary end first then replace the bowl and metering block as a unit, pushing the transfer tube into the secondary bowl. Hold the primary bowl in place with one hand and start a couple of the long screws with the other. Gradually tighten the screws in a cross pattern. Regarding the off idle hesitation(?) that may just need a minor adjustment to the accelerator pump cam. There are 2 holes or different positions that it can be installed in as well as a spec. for proper pre-load. Of course there are also a number of different cams too that can be exchanged. Be advised that the new carbs have had some quality control issues too. That's another reason I will not let go of my old "junk". Good luck.

Ted this engine performs very well with the 600 cfm carb, starts first crank (manual choke), idles perfect when warmed, comes off idle like it's wanting or waitng for throttle either in neutral or under load, lugs at low rpm and loves the open road when I leave town headed home so I don't want to change this right now, which leads me to fixing the leak.

gekko13, I have a rebuild kit, I changed the accelerator pump out last year cause I sure that was the leak, not so. Now I think the leak is from the front bowl and having lightly tightened the retaining bolts it has gotten worse. I'm thinking I'll give a shot at changing out that gasket. After reviewing DryLakesRacer's post I can buy an 1850 new for around 300 total, and would likely get another one. At this point I can't hurt the one I've got, and I do get confidence from talking it through here.

Thanks

Ted, Redding, CA

brokengate, unless there is some serious physical damage to the 1850, you can rebuild it yourself for a fraction of the cost of any new unit. These are very basic carbs and only require a little effort on your part to educate yourself. There are many good manuals out there which can be purchased, borrow or read on-line. The only tools you need are a few wrenches and a screw driver. Some early 1850's had "clutch head" attaching screws which require a specific driver but that is not always the case. An inexpensive rebuild kit (Standard Hygrade, NAPA/Echlin, Holley, etc.) has all the pieces you'll need. Take your time and go at your own pace (no beer until later, LOL). When you are done, you'll have the satisfaction of learning a new skill. If you run into problems, the guys on this forum will come to your aid. You can do this. BTW, I have an old 1850 that I bought used in the 1960's. It's been through a lot and is still one of the best pieces I have.

The Holley List #1848-1 is generally a good bolt on carb for the stock based Y’s. It’s rated at 465 cfm and has the Ford linkage arm making it a direct bolt on for the ’57 Fords and Thunderbirds. It has a smooth idle right out of the box and has good throttle response.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

If you want plug and play, go with an Edelbrock. For a stock 312, the 500 CFM should work the best. I have 600CFM on two of my cars and they run very well.

I hear that the Summitt carbs are pretty good. I know one guy that has one and he is very happy with it.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

DryLakes, I went to the Holley site, if I could by mine I would but they (1850) look/are different, I think. I can go to a carb shop if needed but kinda hoping to do this myself, and I've got some hot rod buddys so I'll get thru this, but for as much beer as they drink I can pay the carb shop.

Steve the Fuel Slayers look good but in their info they state, "Their hand-built quality and all-aluminum construction are definitely grand, but their changeable idle air and high-speed air bleeds, 3-stage emulsion circuits, changeable primary idle feed and power valve restrictions, vacuum secondary adjustment screw, and unique secondary metering plate with changeable jets are nothing shy of outstanding! Pursue horsepower and get more dollar power with the carburetors that let you tune "your way" and offer show-quality appeal--Quick Fuel Slayer series carburetors." I'm lost and spinning reading about emulsion circuits. Really want easy.

Pete I swear I Googled the snot out of Holley 1850-9, and came up with the 4150 & 650 cfm but then I'm no Al Gore either. I think you've got this carb right, two idle mix adjusts, linkage, manual choke, basic and user friendly. Last carb I rebuilt was on a 1960 Stude Lark, wound up with a spring left over, ran fine, but I don't know how. I'd love to bolt down a new one, set the idle mix and go.

Want to look at the Demons also, Thanks to my Y-Brothers for picking me up on this, and I've got a set of Mummert heads on the floor in the OG office for later.

Ted, Redding, CA

Ted

When I Google holley 1850-9 it translates to a 600 CFM 4160 carb. Very basic and generally user friendly. The new gas with ethanol is hard on the older carbs needle/seat and o rings and if your carb has the tan plastic floats they absorb gas and lose their boyance and should be replaced.

When you do replace take a real good look at the throttle linkage hook up and choke type and hook up.

Holley has a bunch of carb troubleshooting video here http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL353239D6A7D7BFF0

Pete

I keep looking at these "Quick Fuel Slayer" 600 CFM carbs - and think they might be a decent upgrade....



Has big bowls - electric choke - vacuum secondary (with external adjust) - jazzy looks - bowl windows..............



 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona