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b intake

Posted By sallens 12 Years Ago
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sallens
Posted 12 Years Ago
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i have a ( b intake ) which i want to fit on my 292 engine can some one tell me what the holes at either end connect up to and what carb would be best to buy to fit on

many thanks

steve......
Dobie Gillis
Posted 12 Years Ago
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sallens (5/15/2013)
i have a ( b intake ) which i want to fit on my 292 engine can some one tell me what the holes at either end connect up to and what carb would be best to buy to fit on

many thanks

steve......


The holes don't connect to anything, they're only for the manifold bolts. Be carefull not to use too long a bolt; the corresponding holes in the heads go through to the pushrod areas.

Is this a 2 barrel or 4 barrel intake? If the engine is stock or mildly hopped something in the range of 470 to 500 cfm suffices. I've heard of guys using the Holley 390, but that seems a bit smallish to me.
GREENBIRD56
Posted 12 Years Ago
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This photo shows the "B" - which holes?



At left on top center is the heater hose port - and at right (down on the backside), is a vacuum port. The others are bolt holes.

The 390 cfm Holley is a good choice for a Y build and use on this manifold - as is the 465 cfm version. They have throttle bodies that match the four small throttle holes in the mounting surface. You can mount carbs with bigger throttle bores - but will need to modify the openings. Just stacking gaskets to get the throttles of a 600 cfm to swing won't do a very good job.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9ea2bf28-00c4-4772-9ac7-d154.jpg 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona
joey
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Barry Grant makes a Road Demon 525 vacuum-secondary carb that's kind of an upgrade on the Holley 4-barrel.

http://www.demoncarbs.com/Types/Road%20Demon.asp

Couple years ago I bought a Demon for my 312 (B intake). Bought a remanufactured unit (paid a lot less that way), it looked brand new and didn't have a mark on it. Played a little with the jetting and pump shot, and it's been 'happy motoring' ever since. Nice carb.
pegleg
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Joey, USED to be Barry Grant, he developed them. But he went bust and they're now owned by Holley. Sad huh?

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 


sallens
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Thanks guys for your help , i have now sorted the manifold out.....

i now need to sort the carb out..

the car came with a CARTER AFB CARB which i think i will try out before buying a new carb......

as i have no fixing instructions with the carb , can someone help me identify all the connections on the carb please.

many thanks

steve...............

......................................................
piperj3
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Hey Steve,

I'm also doing the same thing and just found a 4 barrel B manifold with the original holley 1272-1 on it. As far as the carb goe's, I'm not sure what CFM it is. The other thing I noticed on the B manifold was another hole on the opposite side of the auto choke control intake that looks like it has a small tube going into the manifold but doesn't protrude out of the manifold. Not sure what it's for ?

Thanks

Bob

Wis
Doug T
Posted 12 Years Ago
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B manifolds have a steel tube running through the exhaust plenum under the carb to make warm air for the auto choke. There is a button-like air inlet on the left side and a hole for a tube to the choke on the right side. These tubes are usually corroded and leaky. I usually tap both holes (5/16 - 18 I think) and run a manual choke but it might be possible to fish a new piece of tube through the existing holes to return the original function. But if you block off the heat to the plenum the choke will not heat anyhow.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.


PF Arcand
Posted 12 Years Ago
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A defective choke heat tube can be drilled out, although it's a bit tricky to do. I live in the northern latitudes, so decided to replace the rotted out tube, for auto choke operation. Very occasionally tubes show up on e bay or elsewhere for sale, but I made a new one from 1/4" o.d. copper pipe (1/8" i.d.?). Was able to lube the start area & drift it in. Also, used exhaust-muffler cement near the pipe ends to seal for leaks at the casting. What was originally the "button end" will need to be partly closed someway, so as to have the heat rise as needed. I made the pipe about flush at the casting there & made a tiny partial cover & soldered it over the pipe end. However, that proved to an awkward way to do it. I then Purchased a 1/4" brass 90, furrels & nuts for the choke side end, to make the connections up to the choke housing.. However have not put it in service yet, so no final results are in... P.S.- as noted by Doug T, if the exhaust heat crossover is blocked at the intake manifold gaskets, the auto choke heat setup will not work. In my case I intend to use "truck" intake manifold gaskets, which have smaller crossover holes, limiting, but not blocking crossover heating..

Paul


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