Never ever use an impact wrench on a Y crank. I am on my 6thor 7th crank for my project, all had cracks found during the magna fluxing process.

eat an extra weetabix for breakfast, to stop crank rotating one method i've seen and used is to take a piece of rope of your choice and feed in thro a spark plug hole. you will have to back off slightly to retreive the rope.

this weekend i'm helping son to rebush the watts linkage on his land rover. the centre bolt is torqued to 170 ft/lbs, my wrench goes to 175! i use my feet.

stuey

UK

To install the damper I just took a 5" long 9/16" bolt, threaded it to the end with a die, threaded on a nut plus the heavy damper washer and 3 or 4 regular washers. Then you thread the bolt all the way into the crank (after pushing the damper on as far as possible by hand). Then you put a wrench on the nut you threaded on to the bolt and press the damper all the way on. Once the damper is seated you remove the 5" bolt and install the regular bolt and washer and torque. Interestingly the shop manual says to torque to 85 - 90 Ft. Lbs while Eickman says 130 - 145 ft. lbs. Anyone know which is correct? My motor is on a stand so to torque the damper I bolted a box end wrench between one flywheel bolt and and a bellhousing bolt. To remove the damper bolt I jammed a large screwdriver through the damper spokes and up against the timing cover. Then used a standard damper puller. I have removed several this way. I actually did this today.

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia

i"ve been able to unloosen the bolt by using a socket with a breaker bar. If this does not seem to work, slide a pipe over the breaker bar to make it longer for more leverage. Naturally you will have to find something to prevent the engine from rotating. Usually a heavy screwdriver or tire iron in the flywheel teeth will work.

In putting in back on, I have used a longer bolt just to get the balancer on enough so that the regular bolt will screw in to pull the balancer the rest of the way on.

You can use shims on the longer bolt so that it won't bottom out before the balance is on enough to use the regular bolt.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

The socket/breaker bar bolt loosening has worked for me on different engines where I didn't have air available. Removal of a y block dampener is another matter. There was a thread on it recently that's worth looking up.

Don

The socket/breaker bar bolt loosening has worked for me on different engines where I didn't have air available. Removal of a y block dampener is another matter. There was a thread on it recently that's worth looking up.

Don

What I did with mine was attach a piece of chain(I had one from my engine crane) bolted to the balancer with the existing threaded hole.Wrap or attach the other end to frame or anchor it somewhere.I have a long piece of pipe that fits over my 1/2 inch drive ratchet handle for more leverage.That bolt is probably torqued to 90-110lbs so its real tight.If you can get it turning and removed than you just need a conventional puller to take the damper off.The trick is getting it back on.There is a special installer/puller you can buy but apparently they don't come with the 9/16 fine thread adapter need for the Y-block.So you have to make one with a die set.Ray in Florida just went through this with his and had to make an adapter for the fine thread 9/16.

  

Hey guys. I was under the impression that in order to remove the harmonic balancer, I needed an impact wrench to do it. I had made this comment somewhere else and was told to do it the "old fashioned way" and remove it with a wrench. The guy went on to say that if that proved too difficult, to put a wrench on it with an extension, wedge that onto the frame, and bump the starter. Now, as of right now, I have to air compressor and no special harmonic balancer puller. Where would you go with this if you were me? Buy a compressor and puller, or do it his way.