Jim,

Thanks for the info, I understand now about the transmission, I think I will try the Y-270S cam.

Thanks Ed

AZ28/Steve,

I used a 567 box from ABS, no frame modifications, I welded up the mounting holes in the steering box and redrilled it to line up with the frame on the T-bird, shortened the stock column about 6 inches and still retained the adjustable column, I did move the idler bracket about .250 forward and about .500 down, also made a new steering column to firewall seal, the column sits up about .500 higher and a little hand filing on the pitman arm and it fit fine.   It took some time because it was all by the trial and error and the chassis was already painted, fortunately the engine was out of the car, but well worth the time and effort.

Ed

Ed,

Let me respond to your torque converter question. When I say tight I mean a very low stall speed. Which means little slippage at an idle. You can have the torque converter vanes cut to increase the stall speed thus allowing a higher idle speed without over heating the trans. I was quoted $500 for the procedure at Art Carr transmissions. They would only guarantee an additional 4-500 RPM increase in stall speed. I opted for using it stock. As was mentioned above, automatic cars need more vacuum under a pull " in gear" to keep idling. Thus higher stall speed, you can have a higher idle speed and more vacuum to idle.

My cars sounds like a typical Y block with that great " cam-y" idle. The Y-270S cam will work with the stock trans and converter.



Hope this helps!

Have a Great Thanksgiving!



Jim

  Jim Rowe Elkhorn, NE

Sanman -

Did you use the Borgeson 55/57 steering box? I've been staring at that thing forever wondering how it might work on my Ford. The big question - did you have to modify the frame to bolt it on there? and how much? Using that style of Saginaw gearbox would make things very clean - even if it requires the iron exhaust manifolds. 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Red's is under new ownership. Bought out by a younger guy. Seems to be very concientious. Might be worth talking to him and explaining your issues with the T'Bird headers. I suspect he'll listen as he wants to be involved in the Y Block market           

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Check with Mummert, he used to advertise T-Bird headers...?

Paul

ok, then back to the original cam question-Mummert is very good at guiding you especially since he's doing the headwork. He recommended my choice and I got it thru Ted Eaton- also a very good guide. It was a good choice for me because of a matched set of lifters, springs, pushrods and everything. Always remind the manufacturer of the cam about the fordomatic or auto. Again I believe the Headwork coupled with the other things you stated you planned will be a good street engine. I'm sure mine has more lope to it but heck, it also has more noise and about 150 more hp than it used to!

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Bird55,

The Sandersons won't fit either, trust me Red's was my last choice. I installed a power steering box made for the 55-57 Chevys, the steering works great, super quick, 2.5 turns lock to lock.

Ed

woops, sounds like rack and pinion setup. OK well the reds will work but how about Sanderson-I know their setup is still better than reds. I used to have a set.

I think you may have to call them as I don't think they list them on the website.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Bird55,

I have a brand new set of Ford Powertrain headers, they will not fit the steering I installed, I am stuck with Red's headers or stock exhaust manifolds, nothing else will fit.

Thanks Ed