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Ok I need some help.

Posted By pintoplumber 12 Years Ago
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pintoplumber
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Y block Billy (8/14/2013)
Hi Dennis,I think most run upwards of 36* total timing and backfiring out the exhaust when you let off is normally a retarded condition. Did you check your timing with No 1 cyl to TDC with the new crank? maybe the relation of No 1 at TDC is slightly different than the 239 crank was and your marks may be off. Just a thought!


Billy, the crank is timed right with the camshaft. My machinist came over sunday to look at it since I had the timing cover off. I have another 292 crank sitting here to look at. He had a hard time believing the crank keyway wouldn't be straight up for timing it.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA
pintoplumber
Posted 12 Years Ago
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The Master Cylinder (8/14/2013)
Just an early morning thought. You mention you replaced the plug wires and cap. You also mentioned it backfires when coasting. Are you sure you have the right wire going to the right plug. Maybe you have two crossed and it doesn't show up until you put a load on it.

Just another 1¢ worth.


We're wired up right. A couple of years ago I had 7 and 8 reversed at the engine, boy does the exhaust really crack loud that way.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA
pintoplumber
Posted 12 Years Ago
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pegleg (8/14/2013)
Dennis,

Obviously you thought about this, but backfiring on the "over-run" is ty[pically a lean condition.

Could be intake (underneath) or a dist Vacuum can, or a carb gasket/ internal leak. Have you checked plugs to try to isolate it? Master could right too, a weak spark could possibly act like that.


Frank,I too thought the backfiring comes from a lean condition. Could the G heads be flowing that much better that I'm running lean? I'm thinking I need to increase jet sizes. I have .53 in the center and .51's on the outer ones.

I'm sure the intake isn't leaking at the heads, I've sprayed starting fluid around the base using the little straw that comes with a can of carb cleaner.

I'm running centrifugal advance only.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA
pintoplumber
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The Horvaths (8/14/2013)
Or the ubiquitous "slipped damper ring" could indicate incorrect initial timing.


The 239's don't have a damper, just a pulley with timing marks on it. I'm sure it's timed right.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA
charliemccraney
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Are you determining that it is timed right with a degree wheel?

During my second build of the engine, the cam was almost 10 degrees retarded in the straight up position. That was with the same cam and timing set. Unfortunately, I never checked the previous build so I can't know if it is the crank or cam or timing set that is so far off.

If you're going based on where it was with the old crank, you're probably not timed the same because of manufacturing tolerances. And if you changed the cam or timing set, I can almost guarantee that you are not. I don't know if that could make it bad enough to cause problems, though.


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MoonShadow
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Try setting the timing by ear. I'm assuming you know how. Mark the current timing advance point. Then see how close the sweet spot and the timing mark are. Its a quick check. I mentioned earlier that with the increase in cubic inches and other changes you could be running lean. Does it act sort of like a fuel pump going bad? Misses and backfires under load? Chuck

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pintoplumber
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Hoosier Hurricane (8/14/2013)
Dennis:

Can you stand one more thought from me? I assume you have a hand choke on your center carb, I can't remember for sure. If so, while running on the center carb, pull the choke out a little and see if it helps, at least until it needs more air. That would at least tell you if you are lean.


I think I can try that. The engine is running faster at idle now since the spring tension from the other 2 carbs isn't holding the butterfly shut tight.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA
pintoplumber
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charliemccraney (8/14/2013)
Are you determining that it is timed right with a degree wheel?

During my second build of the engine, the cam was almost 10 degrees retarded in the straight up position. That was with the same cam and timing set. Unfortunately, I never checked the previous build so I can't know if it is the crank or cam or timing set that is so far off.

If you're going based on where it was with the old crank, you're probably not timed the same because of manufacturing tolerances. And if you changed the cam or timing set, I can almost guarantee that you are not. I don't know if that could make it bad enough to cause problems, though.


Charlie, I used a degree wheel. It took me a long time to understand what I was doing. Every time I did it I'd come up with a different number. I walked away from it for 2 weeks. Then I was getting consistent numbers. I talked with Ted and I ended up using the 2 degree retarded keyway which gives me 3 degrees advance.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA
pintoplumber
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MoonShadow (8/14/2013)
Try setting the timing by ear. I'm assuming you know how. Mark the current timing advance point. Then see how close the sweet spot and the timing mark are. Its a quick check. I mentioned earlier that with the increase in cubic inches and other changes you could be running lean. Does it act sort of like a fuel pump going bad? Misses and backfires under load? Chuck


Chuck, the exhaust is too loud to hear pinging. I only ever heard some pinging when I was towing the camper last year. I don't have the blackness on the plugs like when I'd have to change them to race. I must have 8 sets of plugs for the old heads.

I've got through a tank of gas since the end of june, that should have showed up on the plugs.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA
Pete 55Tbird
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Try a Google search of backfire vs afterfire ( popping in the exhaust system) this is caused by a RICH fuel condition from unburned gas in the exhaust. Check the ignition and ignition timing. How do the plugs look? Pete


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