Well, Dennis, you've got us all scratching our heads.
Based upon all that has been discussed to date, consider going at this in a different way.
Locate a vacuum gauge. Hopefully, you’ve got enough running time on the engine that you’re comfortable dropping the engine idle speed down to ‘normal’.
The numerical ‘normal’ vacuum gauge reading on your engine will likely be lower than an everyday grocery-getter because of the Isky E-4 cam you’re running. -Your cam probably has about 40 degrees of valve overlap. Sooo… In doing vacuum gauge readings, the action of the gauge needle will generally be more telling than the numerical gauge reading.
Run your engine until it is at operating temperature. Connect the vacuum gauge to the intake manifold.
At engine idle speed, what is the movement of the needle indicator?
-is the vacuum gauge needle steady?
-does the needle drop 1-7 inches at regular intervals?
-is there a sharp, intermittent drop of the needle?
-does the needle drift either side of your 'normal' reading?
-if the needle does drift either side of your ‘normal’, how many inches does it drift each way?
-what is the numerical reading of the vacuum gauge at idle?
-what is your idle speed?
At a steady engine operating speed of 2000 rpm, what is the movement of the needle indicator?
-does the needle fluctuate rapidly at this engine speed?
-if the needle does fluctuate rapidly, what numbers does it fluctuate between?
-if there is such a fluctuation, does the fluctuation amount increase as the engine speed is increased?
I’m in hopes that this test will tell us something we don’t know. 
NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York