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Ok I need some help.

Posted By pintoplumber 12 Years Ago
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pegleg
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Good, glad to hear it

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 


pintoplumber
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Well two .57's front and rear were too much. I have to go back to .57 and .51 front and rear.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA
NoShortcuts
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Hi Dennis,

Slow on my reply to your supplied info. From your most recent posts, I’m scratching my head that all of this is about carburetor jetting…

___________________________

In suggesting that you take engine vacuum gauge readings, my first questions were about the movement of the needle indicator at engine idle speed.

Based upon what you have observed and reported at your ‘normal’ idle speed of 500 rpm, I would rule out:

-leaking valves (would see the needle periodically drop 1 to 7 inches at regular intervals if leaking)

-sticking valves / valve guide problem (would see rapid,intermittent drop of needle each time a valve was supposed to close)

-excessive valve guide clearances (would see a low reading and needle fluctuations of up to 3 inches either side of your engine’s ‘normal’ reading)

-too rich an air fuel mixture at idle (would see needle indicator drift back and forth)

-too lean an air fuel mixture at idle (would see an irregular drop of the needle)

Comments:

-I’m surprised that your engine vacuum reading is 11 at an idle of 500. To me, with what I believe an Isky E-4 camshaft grind to be like, this seems LOW. Because of the valve overlap interval of this cam, I would expect the engine vacuum reading to be at least 14 inches at 600 rpm.

Without a damper on the vacuum gauge, the 1 inch swing of the needle that you report with the E-4 cam is probably normal. However, the 11 you’re getting at idle makes my eyes squint and my face wrinkle in skepticism.

I’m of the thinking that the steady but low vacuum reading you are reporting is attributable to:

-late ignition timing

-valve stem to rockerarm clearance settings being too small (I’m sure that in your case this is not a consideration)

-late valve timing

SUGGESTED FOLLOW-UP TEST – Try advancing the ignition timing with the engine at idle. IF the vacuum gauge reading does not increase to a higher number, I believe the valve timing (camshaft installation) to be incorrect.

___________________________

My second set of questions was about engine vacuum when the engine was held at a steady operating speed of 2000 rpm.

Based upon the steady vacuum reading of 17 that you reported at 2000 rpm, I would rule out:

-valve spring retainer heights being excessive or not uniform (vacuum readings would fluctuate rapidly if retainer heights were incorrect or different from each other. Reasoning: spring pressures would vary if assembled heights were different, just as if you had weak valve springs. Again, your springs are new and spring values are not in question.)

I’m surprised that your engine vacuum is only 17 at 2000 rpm. Again, this seems low to me.

Once again, I question ignition timing or valve timing (camshaft sync to the crankshaft)

Not reported:

-You did not indicate if the vacuum reading remained steady at 17 or if the needle fluctuated as you increased engine speed above 2000 rpm.

___________________________

I did not suggest your closing the throttle quickly at 2000 rpm because I expected that your piston rings are not seated yet. The reading you got when you did this indicates that while your piston rings may not be fully seated, they’re doing their job just fine anyway. Smile

___________________________

I hope someone else will share their thoughts on your engine’s idle speed vacuum reading of 11 and 17 at 2000 rpm. I see Charlie's questioning your low rpm vacuum readings, too.

I’ll be interested to hear how this finally shakes out.

Regards,



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Ted
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Gut feel says fuel demand went up with the increase in cubic inches. Where the 239 may have been on the verge of being over-carburetted, the new combination is now requiring more cfm thus needing larger jets to get back to that ideal air/fuel ratio. This is a catch twenty-two when it comes to jetting though as adding carbs that were originally designed to be used singularly has those carbs being reduced in cfm which in turn requires smaller jetting. As a general rule, when power valves are blocked off, larger jets are required in which to compensate. It’s still important that the end carbs be jetted the same though without a difference in jetting between the front and rear carbs. You might consider the jetting on the center carb also.



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


pintoplumber
Posted 12 Years Ago
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We got rained out at Maple Grove today. On the way back on the 4 lane highway I ran it from 2000 up to 4000. A little bit of hesitation around 2500, but ran good up to 4000. Sounds like I should increase the center carb jets too.

Next sunday is the ford race at Mason Dixon.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA
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pintoplumber (8/17/2013)
Progress! I talked to a retired mechanic today. He suggested changing one jet in each carb.

I had 53s in the center carb and 51s in the front and rear. I put one 57 in the front and one 57 in the rear.

_______________________

pintoplumber (8/18/2013)
Well two 57's front and rear were too much. I have to go back to one 57 and one 51 front and rear.

_______________________

Dennis, both high speed jets need to be the same in each front and rear carburetor. Each high speed jet feeds a different set of cylinders.



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pintoplumber
Posted 12 Years Ago
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I have a limited number of jets on hand, I think I'm going to get 3 pairs of .54's.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA
yalincoln
Posted 12 Years Ago
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find someone to bore the carb out to 1&3/16 like they did in the old days and jet them up!!! good luck.

 lincoln/merc. y-blocks &mel's                                                               bucyrus, ohio.
pintoplumber
Posted 12 Years Ago
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I drilled out two pairs of .48's and one pair of .51's to .54 so I have three sets of .54's. Put them in today and they ran worse. I have to drive about two miles to get home after getting on it before I can check the plugs. 1 and 5 looked the blackest - not the porcelain but inside the plug. I have some .53's and .52's to try next.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA
pintoplumber
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Well, all the wise men in Columbus helped me get the truck running without missing. It wasn't the jets. Rotor and points. I'll post a picture when I get home. I'm doing this with a kindle and am limited.
I need to go back to smaller jets tomorrow.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA


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