I have a 56 ford Victoria im restoring it has a .060 over 292 and three on the tree tranny.What would be the advantages of the hydraulic clutch conversion?

None that I can think of. I can think of a couple of disadvantages: a) cost (maybe not a factor), and b) the hassle getting to the concentric T.O. bearing when it starts leaking hydraulic fluid. The stock mechanical linkage is bog simple and won't leave you stranded on the side of the road.

OK simple is GOOD!

Mikhett;

If you are restoring your 56 to original, there is nothing wrong with staying with the stock mechanical clutch linkage. They are simple and easy to work on and adjust. For those of us who can't leave things alone and want to change from the original steering box, the hydraulic clutches provide an advantage in that they eliminate the linkage and brackets that often interfere with some power steering boxes or rack and pinion options. Also, there is more than 1 way to set-up a hydraulic clutch. The hydraulic release (throw out) bearing can cause problems if they leak or malfunction and require pulling the transmission to repair. I am setting-up a hydraulic clutch using a pull-type slave cylinder which will mount to the outside of the transmission and uses a stock release bearing. I'll post pictures when it's done.

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

And mechanical clutch seems to get in the way of installing headers also. But since you are restoring your Vic that should not be a concern.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Either mechanical or hydraulic will be reliable and won't leave you stranded so long as it is in good condition. Mechanical was used reliably for years. Hydraulic has been used reliably for years. Both came or come on factory vehicles.

Benefits I've noticed from experience are smoother operation of the clutch, more room for stuff under the hood, and in some situations, it works better because the hydraulic system is not affected by body and engine movement a like mechanical linkage can be.

I don't think the potential cost will justify the benefits, unless you need more room for stuff.

Since I don't believe it will be a "bolt on" for your '56, a hydraulic clutch could be a more practical solution in the long run because you can use some commonly available master cylinder and slave cylinder so that if you have a problem, you can just go the the parts store. Original linkage components might be more difficult to find.


Lawrenceville, GA

Interesting discussion. I'm illiterate regarding Ford pick-ups. I know NOTHING!

I'm thinking the next step... What year Ford pick-up trucks with y-blocks had hydraulic actuated clutches? '54 - '64?

Other questions...
1) Do hydraulic actuated clutches have a different 'feel' when actuated than a mechanical system?
2) Does the clutch seem to be 'engaged or disengaged' when compared to a mechanical system? -Charlie described it as being 'smoother operating'.
3) Is there less pedal travel associated with the clutch pedal of a hydraulic system than with a mechanically operated clutch discs?

Thanks for helping the uninformed!

NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

The info I have indicates that '57 - '60 F100-950 and '61 - '62 F700-850 were equipped with the hydraulic clutch. I don't think those will all necessarily have y blocks, but the '57 - '60 parts will work on all trucks of that year model and the '61='62 parts will work on '61-'64 and I think through '66 still has the firewall stamped for the master cylinder.
The same slave cylinder was used for all of those and even other manufacturers in the same era. The master cylinder, and possible pedal ratio is different.

To answer your questions:'
1) I say yes, because there is less variability when the movement of the body and engine are eliminated and possibly even the friction from all of the pivot points is now gone.
2) I don't understand this one. I think the engagement feels more positive and assuring, if that makes any sense.
3) The pedal travel will be about the same because the ratio of pedal movement to clutch fork movement needs to remain the same for the same effort. A larger master cylinder will displace more fluid which will require less travel, but more effort. A smaller master cylinder will displace less fluid which requires more travel and less effort, BUT it may not move enough fluid to disengage the clutch.


Lawrenceville, GA

In most applications it doesn't matter, but in years past it was found that in drag racing with a hydraulic clutch, when "popping" the clutch and "speed shifting", the apply rate for the hydraulic system was slower than mechanical linkage, therefore clutch slippage was more pronounced. Drilling out passages and using larger diameter lines/hoses helped, but most serious racers didn't use hydraulics.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I'll add one more thing regarding clutch pedal effort while not directly related to hydraulic clutches. There are many aftermarket clutch and pressure plate options out there, but I have had a good experience with one in particular. I installed a "Centerforce" 11" clutch and pressure plate in my 56 Customline and just installed another on my new motor. Their installation instructions suggest removing the large clutch pedal spring located under the dash (in the 56 cars) as they are not needed which I did. I was amazed with the results. The "Centerforce" pressure plate uses a wire with counter weights on the diaphragm fingers. As the pressure plate spins, the weights move inward applying pressure to the diaphragm and reducing pedal pressure they say by as much as 40%.

The photo shows their 11" dual friction clutch and pressure plate kit # DF-700000Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID